30

Passport

1. Class — ice and snow

2. Terskey Ala-Too, Bantor gorge

3. Summit "20 лет газеты «Комсомолец Киргизии»" via the center of the north face of the western shoulder.

4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.

5. Height difference: 750 m, length — 965 m

   Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 825 m

   Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (3700–4450)

   Average steepness of the rocky part — 63° (3820–4030)

6. Pitons driven:

   rock	bolt	chocks	ice screws
   27	0	47	428
   4	0	0	0

7. Team's climbing hours: 15 hours and days — 1

8. Overnight stay — on descent

9. Team leader: Tumyalis Vladimir Vitalyevich MSM

   Participants:

   • Kozhemyako Nikolai Grigoryevich MSМК
   • Plotnikov Ivan Aleksandrovich MSМК
   • Stalkovsky Vladimir Viktorovich MSМК
   • Tenenev Valentin Alekseyevich MSM
   • Foigt Aleksandr Vadimovich MSМК

10. Coach: Shevchenko Nikolai Alekseyevich MSM

11. Approach to the route: August 12, 1988

    Summit: August 12, 1988. Return: August 13, 1988

12. Organization: GoskomSport RSFSR

UIAA Scheme Scale 1:2000

Tactical Actions of the RSFSR-I Team

during the ascent of Peak "20 лет газеты «Комсомолец Киргизии»" via the center of the North face of the West shoulder, first ascent approximately 5B category of difficulty, made as part of the USSR Championship in mountaineering in the class of snow and ice ascents.

1. Route Selection

   The overall inspection of the wall was conducted before the start of the championship after a period of severe bad weather. The condition roughly corresponded to the photographic materials available to the judging panel. The rating set by the judges determined the choice of route on this wall.

2. Equipment Selection

   Based on the characteristics of the route, appropriate rock and ice climbing equipment was selected (according to the route sheet).

3. Characteristics of Sections and Tactical Actions of the Team

   The route consists of five characteristic sections. The team started the route on August 12, 1988, at 03:30 from the assault camp on the moraine of the "Baitor" glacier. The approach to the route took 1 hour.

   Section R0–R1. Movement began at 04:30 from the bergschrund, overcoming a complex snow wall 2 m high with a steepness of 90° using two ice axes. Further, an ice board with a steepness of about 45°, allowing movement in the dark with flashlights. Movement was carried out by autonomous rope teams:

   • Plotnikov – Tenenev
   • Kozhemyako – Tumyalis
   • Foigt – Stalkovsky

   on a UIAA rope (20 m long) with alternate belaying and changing leads. Belaying through ice screws.

   Section R1–R2 represents the lower part of the rocky bastion, consisting of a series of internal corners and shelves covered with flow ice. Work on this section began at 06:00, as it was starting to get light.

   Tenenev worked first on a double rope. Other participants moved along the fixed ropes with belaying. Stalkovsky worked last on this section.

   Section R2–R3 represents a steeper part of the route. It begins from a snow shelf and ends at the boundary between rock and ice. It includes a series of cornice and internal corners filled with flow ice. When exposed to sunlight, water flows. Plotnikov worked first on this section. Belaying was done on a double rope through rock pitons and chocks. When passing the cornice, N.T.O. (likely a specific climbing technique or equipment) was used. Other participants moved along the fixed ropes with belaying. Stalkovsky worked last. The difficulty of the rocks on this section turned out to be higher than expected, so it took 1 hour more than planned to pass them.

   Section R3–R4 represents an ice board with rocky outcrops, with a steepness of about 50°, leading to the western shoulder of the summit. Work began at 13:30. At 14:00, the group assembled to pass the ice board. Throughout the section, work was carried out by autonomous rope teams moving at the same level on a shortened UIAA rope (18 m long) with changing leads. Movement was done using ice screws for belaying. The first rope team reached the shoulder at 17:20.

   Section R4–R5. The western ridge of the summit is of II–III category of difficulty. Movement was simultaneous, by independent rope teams. Belaying on the ridge was done using the terrain. The summit was reached at 19:30.

   Throughout the entire route, the group wore crampons.

   Descent from the summit was done along the eastern ridge to the pass. Overnight stay was organized in a snow hollow under the pass. On August 13, 1988, the group left the overnight stay at 08:00. Return to the observers' base camp was at 11:30.

4. Nutrition

   On the route, 600 g per person per day. Dinner and breakfast were hot; a pocket ration was issued for the day.

5. Radio Communication and Observation

   Radio communication on the route was stable, at the planned time. Emergency listening was carried out by observers every hour, starting at 06:00. Observation was constant through a 30×60 telescope.

   The weather during the ascent was good. There were no accidents or injuries to participants.

6. Safety Measures

   Early departure was due to the need to pass the stonefall-prone section in the early, cold time of day. Passage of the rocky bastion was planned and carried out in the first half of the day due to the increased stonefall hazard on this section in the second half of the day. Places for stations on the detour section were chosen under the protection of cornices. Stations were organized on stropped rock pitons and chocks. Parallel movement of rope teams on a shortened rope on section R2–R3 was due to the lowest probability of ice fragments hitting the lower participants.

   The passage of the route was carried out along the planned path without deviations. All sections of the route were passed in accordance with the tactical plan.

Team commander: Tumyalis V.V. Team coach: Shevchenko N.A.