Terskey Alatau

Mountain range18,893.26 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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The second ascent of the northern wall of Oguuz-dashi Peak (Teskey Ala-Too) by Khilko V.P.'s team in 1986, category III, length 1060 m with slopes up to 80°.

  1. Ice class
  2. Teskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
  3. Peak Oguz-bashi 2nd West along the northern wall
  4. Peak Oguz-bashi, cat. dif. 5B, second ascent
  5. Height difference: 800 m, length — 1060 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 700 m, average steepness of the entire route ~ 55° (4200–5000 m), of which: 50° (4200–4500 m), 80° (4500–4700 m), 70° (4700–4950 m)
  6. Pitons driven (approximately):
    • rock 60, ice 90, chocks 6
  7. Team's climbing hours to the summit — 14.5 hours
  8. Convenient overnight stay on the summit ridge.
  9. Team leader Khilko Vladimir Pavlovich — CMS (unofficial)
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Report on the first ascent of Category III, Grade 5B route via the North wall to the summit of Oguz-bashi 2nd Western in the Terskey-Alatoo ridge.

Passport

I. Class — ice and snow. 2. Terskey-Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak Oguz-Baschi 2nd Western, via the ice couloir on the North face. 4. Proposed 5B category difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: total — 840 m; wall section — 740 m, its length 838 m, average steepness — 65°. Length of sections with VI category difficulty — 38 m, V — 800 m. 6. Pitons driven:

IceSnow
2252
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An account of the ice ascent to Sugul-Beshi West peak in the Central Tian Shan by the "Profsport-P" team in 1988.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — ice and snow
  2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
  3. Oguz-Bashi 2nd Western (5000 m) via N wall
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B. V. Leontiev's route (1984)
  5. Height difference — 665 m
  6. Distance — 880 m Distance of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 880 m. Average steepness — 50°.
  7. Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |
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**First ascent of Oguz-bashi II West via the North wall through the ice fall, category 6A, with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical details of the ascent.**

Passport

  1. Ice and snow class
  2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
  3. Oguz-bashi II Western peak (5000 m) via the North face "through the icefall"
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6A first ascent
  5. Route description: elevation gain — 750 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m, 6th category of difficulty — 190 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 57° (4200–4850), including 6th category of difficulty sections: 65° (4650–4725), 85° (4770–4850), 105–120° (4830–4880)
  6. Pitons used: rock: 0, bolt: 0, chocks: 0, ice: 430* * — including 130 per rope team during independent movement and an additional 40 during interaction (130 × 3 + 40).
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Description of the ascent to the summit Oguz-Bashch Western along the ice-snow route of 5B category of complexity in the Vekety-Oguz gorge, Tian Shan.

ASCENT PASSPORT I. Ascent class: ICE-SNOW II. Ascent area: VEKE­TY-O­GUZ valley, TAN' MAM' 3. Peak O­GUZ-BA­SHI 28 Western 4. Difficulty category: VIA LEFT PART VIA 5B diff. cat. (ORIEN­T) 5. Route characteristics: - elevation gain: 750 m - length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 2750 m - average steepness: 47° 6. Pitons driven:

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Description of the 4A category complexity route to the summit of Oguz-Bashi (5170) in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge via the North-Eastern wall.

Passport

I CLASS 2-technical. Central Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. Oguz-Bashi Peak (5170) via North-East wall. 4A cat. diff. Height difference: 1600 m, wall section: 900 m. Length: 2700 m (including descent to the glacier). Length of sections with 5-6 diff.: 700 m. Average slope of the route: 55°, with 6 diff.: 75°. Pitons used:

  • rock: 25
  • ice: 32
  • chocks: 16.5 Team's travel time: 48 hours, days: 4.
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Description of the ascent via the North Ridge of Oguз-Bashi peak (5168 m) in Tian-Shan by the team of Kyrgyz Republican Sports Society Spartak in 1979.

PASSPORT

  1. Class: snow-ice
  2. Central Tien-Shan: Jety-Oguz gorge
  3. Peak Oguz-Bashi Glavnaya: via the north-eastern wall
  4. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
  5. Height difference: 1468 m, length 1970 m Length of categorized sections: 1340 m Average steepness of the main part: 50° Route length: 430
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Description of the first ascent of the north wall of 2nd Western Oguz-Bashi 5000m in the Terskey-Alatau ridge in 1984.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class of snow and ice ascents.
  2. Teskey-Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge.
  3. Peak 2nd Western Oguz-Bashi (5000 m) via the north wall.
  4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference 1050 m. Length 1205 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty is 745 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 61°, including III category of difficulty: 95° — 5 m, 35° — 120 m.
  6. 16 rock pitons hammered, 174 ice placements.
  7. Team's travel time is 16 hours, 1 day.
  8. ONE Overnight stay ON A ROCK-ICE PLATFORM.
  9. Leader: Leontiev Vadim Gennadievich — Master of Sports.
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Ascent by the Tomsk Regional Sports Committee team to the peak Oguз-baши 2nd East via the North wall, category 5B, second ascent.

Report

on the ascent of Oguz-Bashi 2nd Eastern via the Northern wall, 5B category of difficulty, second ascent. Team of Tomsk Regional Sports Committee. Team captain — Sannikov Yu.V. Team coach — Dyachenko N.N. 634050, Tomsk, Herzen St. 8, Regional Sports Committee. 634055, Tomsk, 30 let Pobedy St. 3, apt. 606, Sannikov Yu.V. 634012, Tomsk, Kirova St. 61, apt. 30, Dyachenko N.N.

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Climbing passport for the summit Sh-n Vostochny Oguuz-Bashi via the northern edge, 5B difficulty category, Tian-Shan, Teskey Ala-Too.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Central Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
  3. Peak — III-y Vostochnaya Oguz-Bashi, its height is 4960 m, ascent route — via the northern edge.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1560 m, length of sections 5–6 — 759 m, average steepness — 70°.
  6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 82, ice — 64, bolt — 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 3
  7. Number of walking hours — 48
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
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