Terskey Alatau
Route Description: С стене
The second ascent of the northern wall of Oguuz-dashi Peak (Teskey Ala-Too) by Khilko V.P.'s team in 1986, category III, length 1060 m with slopes up to 80°.
- Ice class
- Teskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
- Peak Oguz-bashi 2nd West along the northern wall
- Peak Oguz-bashi, cat. dif. 5B, second ascent
- Height difference: 800 m, length — 1060 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 700 m, average steepness of the entire route ~ 55° (4200–5000 m), of which: 50° (4200–4500 m), 80° (4500–4700 m), 70° (4700–4950 m)
- Pitons driven (approximately):
- rock 60, ice 90, chocks 6
- Team's climbing hours to the summit — 14.5 hours
- Convenient overnight stay on the summit ridge.
- Team leader Khilko Vladimir Pavlovich — CMS (unofficial)
Route Description: С стене
Report on the first ascent of Category III, Grade 5B route via the North wall to the summit of Oguz-bashi 2nd Western in the Terskey-Alatoo ridge.
Passport
I. Class — ice and snow. 2. Terskey-Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak Oguz-Baschi 2nd Western, via the ice couloir on the North face. 4. Proposed 5B category difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: total — 840 m; wall section — 740 m, its length 838 m, average steepness — 65°. Length of sections with VI category difficulty — 38 m, V — 800 m. 6. Pitons driven:
| Ice | Snow |
|---|---|
| 225 | 2 |
Route Description: С стене
An account of the ice ascent to Sugul-Beshi West peak in the Central Tian Shan by the "Profsport-P" team in 1988.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — ice and snow
- Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
- Oguz-Bashi 2nd Western (5000 m) via N wall
- Estimated difficulty category — 6B. V. Leontiev's route (1984)
- Height difference — 665 m
- Distance — 880 m Distance of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 880 m. Average steepness — 50°.
- Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |
Route Description: С стене через ледопад
**First ascent of Oguz-bashi II West via the North wall through the ice fall, category 6A, with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical details of the ascent.**
Passport
- Ice and snow class
- Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
- Oguz-bashi II Western peak (5000 m) via the North face "through the icefall"
- Proposed category of difficulty — 6A first ascent
- Route description: elevation gain — 750 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m, 6th category of difficulty — 190 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 57° (4200–4850), including 6th category of difficulty sections: 65° (4650–4725), 85° (4770–4850), 105–120° (4830–4880)
- Pitons used: rock: 0, bolt: 0, chocks: 0, ice: 430* * — including 130 per rope team during independent movement and an additional 40 during interaction (130 × 3 + 40).
Route Description: левому С кулуару
Description of the ascent to the summit Oguz-Bashch Western along the ice-snow route of 5B category of complexity in the Vekety-Oguz gorge, Tian Shan.
ASCENT PASSPORT I. Ascent class: ICE-SNOW II. Ascent area: VEKETY-OGUZ valley, TAN' MAM' 3. Peak OGUZ-BASHI 28 Western 4. Difficulty category: VIA LEFT PART VIA 5B diff. cat. (ORIENT) 5. Route characteristics: - elevation gain: 750 m - length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 2750 m - average steepness: 47° 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: СВ стене
Description of the 4A category complexity route to the summit of Oguz-Bashi (5170) in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge via the North-Eastern wall.
Passport
I CLASS 2-technical. Central Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. Oguz-Bashi Peak (5170) via North-East wall. 4A cat. diff. Height difference: 1600 m, wall section: 900 m. Length: 2700 m (including descent to the glacier). Length of sections with 5-6 diff.: 700 m. Average slope of the route: 55°, with 6 diff.: 75°. Pitons used:
- rock: 25
- ice: 32
- chocks: 16.5 Team's travel time: 48 hours, days: 4.
Route Description: СВ стене
Description of the ascent via the North Ridge of Oguз-Bashi peak (5168 m) in Tian-Shan by the team of Kyrgyz Republican Sports Society Spartak in 1979.
PASSPORT
- Class: snow-ice
- Central Tien-Shan: Jety-Oguz gorge
- Peak Oguz-Bashi Glavnaya: via the north-eastern wall
- Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Height difference: 1468 m, length 1970 m Length of categorized sections: 1340 m Average steepness of the main part: 50° Route length: 430
Route Description: С стене
Description of the first ascent of the north wall of 2nd Western Oguz-Bashi 5000m in the Terskey-Alatau ridge in 1984.
Ascent Passport
- Class of snow and ice ascents.
- Teskey-Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge.
- Peak 2nd Western Oguz-Bashi (5000 m) via the north wall.
- Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference 1050 m. Length 1205 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty is 745 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 61°, including III category of difficulty: 95° — 5 m, 35° — 120 m.
- 16 rock pitons hammered, 174 ice placements.
- Team's travel time is 16 hours, 1 day.
- ONE Overnight stay ON A ROCK-ICE PLATFORM.
- Leader: Leontiev Vadim Gennadievich — Master of Sports.
Route Description: С ребру
Ascent by the Tomsk Regional Sports Committee team to the peak Oguз-baши 2nd East via the North wall, category 5B, second ascent.
Report
on the ascent of Oguz-Bashi 2nd Eastern via the Northern wall, 5B category of difficulty,
second ascent.
Team of Tomsk Regional Sports Committee.
Team captain — Sannikov Yu.V.
Team coach — Dyachenko N.N.
634050, Tomsk, Herzen St. 8, Regional Sports Committee.
634055, Tomsk, 30 let Pobedy St. 3, apt. 606, Sannikov Yu.V.
634012, Tomsk, Kirova St. 61, apt. 30, Dyachenko N.N.
Route Description: С ребру
Climbing passport for the summit Sh-n Vostochny Oguuz-Bashi via the northern edge, 5B difficulty category, Tian-Shan, Teskey Ala-Too.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area — Central Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
- Peak — III-y Vostochnaya Oguz-Bashi, its height is 4960 m, ascent route — via the northern edge.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1560 m, length of sections 5–6 — 759 m, average steepness — 70°.
- Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 82, ice — 64, bolt — 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 3
- Number of walking hours — 48
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: