Departure from the 3300 "May overnight stay" site, which is located on the left-bank moraine of the Manas glacier.

Departure from the assault camp at 7:00. The approach to the route goes along the left-bank moraine.

The route starts with a wide scree couloir, which descends from the East Ridge. The couloir is passed in 2 hours.

The entrance to the ridge is a landmark - an inclined slab. Behind the slab, a sharp snow ridge begins - I5, 20 m.

Between it and the inclined slab is the first checkpoint. Here, tie in, insurance is alternate through ledges and ice axe.

On the ridge, there is a group of rocks that are bypassed on the left. Movement - 3 hours. Before reaching the big gendarme, traverse the slope from the left side along rocks of medium difficulty with a descent into a wide snow couloir. Careful insurance through ledges and rock pitons.

Further ascent along the couloir to the snow saddle - 2 hours. From the saddle, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (40 m), insurance through ledges and pitons. From the rocks, exit to the snow dome (100 m) and the summit.

Descent along coarse-block scree to the saddle between Bashennый Manas and Manas Glavny.

Total travel hours - 11 hours.

Sources

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