The approach from the "Майские ночёвки" bivouac. From the campsite, ascend to the North ridge.

Further movement is upwards along the ridge, sticking to either the left or the right side. On average, after one hour of walking, two massive gendarmes are encountered (one after another), before which it is necessary to rope up.

Then:

• A small saddle
• Control cairn I (landmark - a high finger-shaped rock)

Further movement is along the ridge, with a rapid gain in altitude. Against the sky above, a massive gendarme in the form of a trident can be seen, 80-100 meters to the left of the route, which is approached by the Northeast ridge.

The approach to the base of the gendarme is via moderately difficult rocks. A small wall, 2-2.5 m high, is tackled directly head-on. Then, the entire massif of the gendarme is traversed from the left along inclined ledges (in the autumn-winter period, these are snow-covered), 10-12 m - a bumpy section, with piton belays.

From the inclined slabs, there is an exit onto a sharp rocky outcrop, about 4 m high. There is a small platform for organizing a belay.

Then, along the crumbling rocks of the ridge, 15-20 m to the descent point to the base of the snow-ice dome of the summit.

The descent is via a rappel dolipher, 10-12 m with a steepness of 70°. There is a possibility to organize a descent with subsequent rope retrieval through a protrusion.

Upwards, an ice slope with a steepness of 30°, increasing to 45°, is visible; in the autumn-winter period, the ice is covered with dense firn.

Movement:

• Straight up (three ropes)
• Then, by two ropes, traverse to the base of a large massive gendarme, clearly visible from the bivouac

Belay is alternate, using ice axes (in icy conditions - ice axes - pitons). The first person should wear crampons.

The gendarme is bypassed from the left along the base - 40 m, belay via a protrusion.

Exit onto a destroyed, scree ridge, then upwards along the ridge to the summit - 30-45 minutes. Simultaneous belay.

At the very summit, on the last 5-6 m, there is a descent into a pit 3-4 m deep and an ascent to the highest point of the ridge.

Descent along the Ito-West slope via route 1Б category of difficulty. The entire route takes II-III hours.