The group's entry under the north buttress of Manas peak at 7:30 am from the 3300 m campsite on the moraine, uphill along the slope with a steepness of 30–35°; to the col (100–120 m). Rope up. From the col, move left — directly along the broken rocks. Simultaneous movement (2 hours). Approach the gendarme, which is bypassed on the left as you go. Then again along easy broken rocks to the second gendarme, which is also bypassed on the left. (Snow throughout the entire route.) Continuing along the ridge, bypass the third gendarme on the right and enter a wide icy couloir with a steepness of 35–40° (move in crampons, ice is 10–15 cm thick). Piton belay. Upward along the ice (in the spring period — covered with snow). 80 m to a rocky outcrop (belay spot); and then traverse right to the north ridge — 50 m, with an exit onto the north ridge. Further, bypass the rocks on the right side along the ledges and come under the "Trident" gendarme, which is passed on the left upward along inclined ledges (10–12 m). Alternating belay through outcrops, when passing inclined ledges — piton belay. After the "Trident" gendarme — exit onto a sharp edge (4 m), belay through outcrops. Further movement along broken rocks to a gap. Rope descent (10–12 m), rocks with a steepness of 70°. Movement continues along the icy slope of Manas' cap, covered with snow (move in crampons). Further upward with a traverse to the right to a rocky "tooth" (150–160 m). Then movement along the rocky crest to the pre-summit gendarme — rocks of medium difficulty, 10 m. Descent into the gap (rappel — 7 m) and to the visible summit — 5 min. Total route time — 11–12 hours