Altai Mountains

Mountain range302,871.01 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the first ascent to the VLKSM peak (3396 m) via the North ridge, category 1B, in the Chikhachev Ridge, Altai.

I. Climbing passport for v. VLKSM, 3396 m, via the North Ridge.

  1. Altai, Chikhachev Ridge, section 1.7. 2. Summit VLKSM (60th anniversary of VLKSM), 3396 m, via the North Ridge. 3. Proposed category 1B difficulty. First ascent. 4. Route characteristics: combined. 5. Route details: Elevation gain 300 m, length 640 m, average slope 30°. 2 rock pitons driven; belay through rock outcrops. 7. Team's moving time: 6 hours. 8. Leader: Khlynovsky A.M., 1st sports category, Participants:
  • Afanasiev A.E., 1st sports category
  • Kovalev G.V., 1st sports category
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Description of the ascent to the summit Pobranichnik Zabaikalya (3601.7 m) via the southern slope, category 1B difficulty level, first ascent in 1978.

II. Ascent Record of Pograni­chnik Zabaykalya Peak, 3601.7 m, via the Southern Slope.

  1. Al­tai, Chi­kha­chov Ridge, section 1.7.
  2. Pograni­chnik Zabaykalya Peak, 3601.7 m, via the Southern Slope.
  3. Proposed category 1B difficulty. First ascent.
  4. The route is of snow and ice character.
  5. Route characteristics:
  • Elevation gain 500 m
  • Length 1000 m
  • Average slope angle 25°
  1. Pitons used: ice screws — 1,
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Ascent description to the top Ak-ovk via the Eastern ridge (3880 m), difficulty category 2B, ice route in Altai.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class. Ice.
  2. Ascent area. Altai. Katunsky ridge.
  3. Peak Ak-oyuk via E. ridge. Height 3880 m. The route is snow-ice.
  4. Estimated difficulty category 2B.
  5. Route characteristics. Height difference 900 m. Average steepness 35–40°.
  6. 8 ice screws were used for belay.
  7. Number of travel hours: 12–13.
  8. The ascent was made from camp to camp without an overnight stay.
  9. Climbers:
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Description of a category 4 complexity route to the summit of Ak-Ook (3880 m) on the Katun Ridge of Altai through the East Ridge.

V. Ak-Oyuk V. gr. Altai Section I. route No. 1. R16–R25?

Passport

  1. Altai. Katunsky ridge, Akkem lake area.
  2. V. Ak-Oyuk V. gr., height 3880 m.
  3. Proposed 2B cat. complexity (report is submitted to change the category of complexity adopted in KTMGV of this route, 1B, which is clearly underestimated).
  4. Height difference 950 m, length 1480 m.
  5. Leader: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS Participants: Alshakov Valery Borisovich III rank, Voevoda Alexander Kuzmich III rank, Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna I rank, Vasin Viktor Anatolyevich III rank
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Route Description: СЗ гребню

SummitMateSSummitMate
14 days ago

Climbing the peak of Anover, detailed route description, technical information, and tips for climbers.

An Over

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Description of the approach to the pass and the initial part of the ascent route to the summit through the Ak-okk gorge with landmarks and approximate time.

From the base camp along Ak-kem lake to the right up a steep grassy slope into Ak-okk gorge (1 h) and further towards Burevestnik pass. Past two lakes, leaving the icefall descending from Ak-okk peak on the left, exit to the moraine in its upper part. Total time to reach the starting point — 2.5 h. The route starts in the same way as to per. Burevestnik.

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Route Description: С стене

SummitMateSSummitMate
14 days ago

Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the challenging route and key considerations for mountaineers.

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A description of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of the path sections, their length, complexity, and characteristic features of the relief.

Участок R0–R1. Snow slope 40°, 200 m. 2nd diff. cl. The ridge is bypassed on the right. Участок R1–R2. Over rocks 55°, 60 m — to the main ridge 4th diff. cl. Участок R2–R3 — 150 m, 40°, main ridge, at the end a control point. Участок R3–R4 — 200 m — 50°, rocks 3rd diff. cl., in the direction to the sharp жандарму on the ridge. Участок R4–R5 — 150 m. To the right along the rock shelf 2nd diff. cl. Участок R5–R6 — left upwards along rocks and shelves 100 m, 50°. Descent. Участок R6–R7 — 20 m. Snowy rocks 55°, 4th diff. cl. Entry onto the edge. Участок R7–R8. 1st ва­лет on the ridge, from the left along the wall with a ще­лью, in counter-pressure 10 m. transition into a steep groove 15 m. Total length of the section 30 m., steepness 85°, 5th diff. cl.

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Route to Peak Komsomola in Pamir through the South Counterfort, 6B difficulty category, with a detailed description and recommendations.

6Б.АК-010К

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Description of the route along the northwestern wall of the mountain with a series of challenging climbing sections and snowy-ice passes of II-III difficulty categories.

160 m I

R13 100 m 40° II

R12 35 m 85° II

R11 45 m 45° III

R10 200 m 40° II

R9 50 m 75° II

R8 100 m 45° II–III

R7 30 m 85° II

R6 20 m 55° III

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