Altai Mountains

Report on the first ascent to the summit of Vershinin Eastern (3450 m) via the Eastern ridge, category 4A route in Altai.

Report ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VERSHININA EASTERN (3450 m) VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE 4A category of complexity BY THE TEAM FROM BAIKALSKAYA ALPINISM SCHOOL July 5, 2021 Irkutsk, 2022 I. Ascent Report | № | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :----------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Afanasyev A.E. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Kobets Yu.M. — 1st sports rank, Mishkov A.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports, Salin A.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports |

Ascent of Pik Pamyati Patriotov (3926 m) in the South Altai range via the north-eastern ridge, category 2A.

Passport Region — Altai. Northern spur of the South Altai ridge. Peak — Pik Pamyati patriotov, 3926 m. Route — via north-eastern ridge, 2A cat. dif., first ascent. Height difference 500–600 m. Steepness of the route 25–35°. Insurance via ice axe. Duration — 5.5 hours. Group composition: Vlasov V.A. — Master of Sports. Semenov S.A. — 1st sports category. Tankova M.V. — 1st sports category.

Report on the winter first ascent via the eastern edge of Nayramdal peak (4374 m) in Altai, made by Perm mountain club on March 14, 2001.

The address of the group leader: Perm, Druzhby st., house No. 16, apt. No. 58, postcode 614070. Tel.: (3422) 65-16-78. E-mail: [email protected]. In the "Format" menu, specify the following: sent text use encoding — Cyrillic KOI8-R Korolev A. Yu. All questions related to the ascent should be sent to this address. The heights indicated in the report were determined using contour lines on a topographic map with a scale of 1:200,000. Ascent Passport Ascent class — winter. Ascent area — Altai, Mongolian Altai ridge.

Description of the first ascent of category 4 complexity on Chuysky Peak (3777 m) in the South-Chuya ridge on Altai.

PASSPORT Category of first ascents. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area. Pik Chuyskiy 3rd slope. Proposed 4B category of difficulty for the first ascent. Height 3777 m. Elevation gain 460 m. Length 680 m. Pitons: 29 ice screws for belay. Climbing hours: 14. Overnight stays: not necessary. Leader: Andrey V. Drakin, Candidate Master of Sports.

Traversing Sestra (Middle) and Sestra (3) peaks in Altai, cat. 2B, combined route, 800 m, 5 hours from the bergshrund.

Passport Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol gorge (Sofiysky glacier area), 1.3 Sister (Middle) – Sister (3) 3721 m traverse. Proposed category 2B, first ascent. Route type — mixed. Height difference 225 m. Distance 800 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 29°, total route 22°. Ice screws used — 6. Total climbing time — 5 hours (from the bergschrund). Leader Drakkin Andrey Valentinovich CMS, 1st sports category, № 68. Participants: Abornev S. — 3rd sports category

Route description to the summit Ostriy via NE ridge, category IIb, Altai, South Chuya ridge.

Passport First Ascent Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol River valley v. Ostyry via NE ridge Proposed category 2B Height 3731 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 680 m Pitons: Ice screws — 8 pcs. Total climbing time 12 hours from bivouac to bivouac 7 hours from bergschrund below the ridge to the glacier under S ridge

Description of a 1B category difficulty route to Ostriy peak via the north edge in the South Chuya ridge in Altai.

PASSPORT First Ascent Altai, South Chuya Ridge v. Ostriy via N ridge Category 1B difficulty proposed Height 3751 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 850 m Equipment: ice screws — 3 pcs. Overnight stays: not required Climbing time 10 hours from bivouac to bivouac, 5 hours from glacier to glacier. Leader: Barnov S.I. — 1st sports category

Report on the traverse of Olga peaks (Eastern - Western) in the South Chuya ridge of Altai, category of complexity 2A.

Ascent Passport Altai, South Chuya Range, classifier section 1.3 Olga (Eastern — Western), traverse. Proposed category: 2A. Route type: ice and snow. Route elevation gain: 700 m. Route length: 1970 m. Length of sections with category V: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 27°. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, drilled pitons: 0. Team's total climbing time: 25 hours, 2 days.

Category IIIb route to the summit of Ksenia (3634 m) in Altai, combined, first ascent in 2004.

Passport Altai, South Chuya Ridge, KMGV section 1.3 v. Ksenia, 3634 m, E. ridge Proposed 3B cat. diff., first ascent. Route type — combined. Route elevation gain — 295 m (by altimeter). Route length — 850 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 0 m. 6 cat. diff. — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 65°, entire route 24°. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted — 0. Used on the route: rock hooks — 6, chocks — 7.

First ascent description of Kseniya Peak (3633 m) via North-Eastern Edge in the South-Chuya ridge of Altai, category of complexity 2B.

Passport Category — first ascent. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol river gorge. Peak Ksenia via NE ridge. 3633 m? Assumed category 2B. Elevation gain 350 m, distance 640 m. Ice screws 12 pcs. Climbing time — 7 hours (from bergshrund to bergshrund). Night bivouac on the upper Sofiysky Glacier field.