Passport
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Altai, South Chuya Ridge, KMGV section 1.3
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v. Ksenia, 3634 m, E. ridge
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Proposed 3B cat. diff., first ascent.
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Route type — combined.
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Route elevation gain — 295 m (by altimeter).
Route length — 850 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 0 m. 6 cat. diff. — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 65°, entire route 24°.
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Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted — 0.
Used on the route: rock hooks — 6, chocks — 7.
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Team's travel hours — 5 h, days — 1.
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Leader: Plotnikov V.G., MS, instructor II cat.
Participants:
- Cherkasov A.N., 1st sports category, instructor III cat.
- Kopytin A.L., 2nd sports category
- Danilov A.B., 2nd sports category
- Ovsienko V.V., 2nd sports category
- Medvedev V.I., 2nd sports category
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Coach: Drakin A.V., CMS, instructor I cat.
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Departure for the route: 5:00, July 14, 2004.
Summit reached: 13:20. Return to base camp: 18:00.
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Organization — UTS Zap.-Sib.PSO EMERCOM of Russia named after V.V.Zyukov.
| Section | Length | Steepness | Cat. difficulty | Terrain type |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| R1–R2 | 150 | 40° | 2 | snow, ice |
| R2–R3 | 60 | 45° | 2 | broken ridge |
| R3–R4 | 15 | 20° | 1 | ledge |
| R4–R5 | 100 | 65° | 3, 4 | wall |
| R5–R6 | 200 | 30° | 3 | ridge |
| R6–R7 | 30 | 60° | 3 | wall, rappel |
| R7–R8 | 300 | 35° | 2 | snow, ice |
Brief description of the route
Approach to the route: from the base camp at the mouth of the Tura-Ayuk river, along the left bank of the Akkol river to the tongue of the Sofiyskiy glacier (2–3 hours).
There are convenient places for overnight stay near the lake. After reaching the glacier, it's more convenient to move along the right (by direction of travel) part towards the big hitching post, where the glacier is less broken. It's better to ascend to the upper step on the right part. There is a passage in the center of the icefall, but there are many crevasses there. Along the upper step, approach the eastern ridge of the Ksenia peak. The approach from the overnight stay to the start of the route takes 4–5 hours (depending on snow conditions). Bypassing the ridge to the right, approach the second gendarme.
- Then — to the saddle behind it: 150–200 m, 35°, 2 cat. diff.
- Along the destroyed rocky ridge (60 m, 45°, 2 cat. diff.), approach the rocky wall (100 m, 65°, 3, 4 cat. diff.), which is climbed from left to right up to the main ridge.
- Move along the left side of the ridge towards the summit to a snowy saddle (200 m, 40°, 3 cat. diff.).
- Descent to the saddle from the ridge via rappel (30 m, 60°, 3 cat. diff.).
- Further ascent along the snow-ice ridge (300 m, 35°, 2 cat. diff.) to the summit.
Descent to the saddle — via the ascent route. Further descent is possible:
- Towards the Sister peak — along a scree gully, then along a snow-ice slope.
- Towards the Brother peak — 2 ropes of rappel, then a snow-ice slope — to the glacier.