RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS. ICE-SNOW CLASS

Report

on the first ascent to Belukha (3), 4400 m via the direttissima of the northern wall by the team from Altai Krai Sports Committee. Coaches:

• Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class
• Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996

Passport

1. Ice-snow class

I. Belukha-cross by the Central Counterfort of the Northern wall 5B cat. difficulty (first ascent). The ascent was made on August 2-5, 1984 by a group of trainers from the MAL "Altai-84" camp:

• Loktionov V.M. — leader, Master of Sports, instructor;
• Kochetov V.S. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor;
• Veiko V.P. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor;
• Soloboev V.E. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor. Moscow, 1986 In the 1983 and 1984 seasons, the international mountaineering camp "Altai" operated in the Belukha area. The Northern wall of the Belukha massif (photo 1) drew the most attention and heightened interest from all mountaineers, as it turned out to be unclimbed (at that time). Two routes were particularly tempting:
• through the center of the Northern wall of East Belukha (via the direttissima);
• Belukha-cross with ascent via the Central counterfort of the Northern wall.

The route passes through the part of the Ak-Kem wall visible from Lake Ak-Kem, with an exit to the Western plateau. The route begins from the left upper cirque of the Ak-Kem glacier at an altitude of 3100 m. Section R0–R1. Snow slope. Section R1–R2. Bergschrund 4 m. Insurance through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. Firn slope under a hanging glacier. Section R3–R4. Tongue of a hanging glacier. Ice is hard. Section R4–R5. Snow cushion of a hanging glacier with ice islands. Section R5–R6. Firn bergschrund. Section R6–R2. Belt of ice-filled rocks. Steepness 45–50°. Section R7–R8. Icy rock belt 65°. Section R8–R9. Ice slope with rock islands.

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120 m 70–80° I

XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

E­ca­sa3 4456

3

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge. Akkem lake area.
3. Assumed 1B category of difficulty first ascent
4. Height difference 800 m, length 1300 m.
5. 9.5 walking hours from the camp on the shore of Akkem lake to the camp
6. Drakin A.V. CMS
   • Belyaev P.A. 3rd sports category
   • Vinnikov K.E. 1st sports category
   • Egorov L.M. 3rd sports category

Passport

I. Altai Katunsky ridge. Akkem gorge. 2. Mt. Boris, NE slope, height 3375 m. 3. Proposed 3A–3B cat. dif. (first ascent). 4. Elevation gain 550 m, length 1000 m. 5. Average steepness of the key section of the route 45–50°. 6. Climbing hours (from the base camp on Akkem lake and back) 15 h. 7. Used pitons: ice screws — 8 8. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS Participants: