East European Highlands

Mountain range125,266.10 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the alpine route to the summit of Morcheka mountain in Khibiny with a complexity category of 2B, including technical information and tips for climbers.

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A description of the climbing route to Mount Morcheka in the Khibiny Mountains, including the history of ascents and a detailed guide for climbers.

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A description of the tourist route to Morcheka mountain in the Sayan Mountains, including technical and logistical information for climbers.

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A description of the "Igrok" route, category 6A, on the Morcheka rock in Crimea with a detailed analysis of ropes and technical features.

Crimea, Morcheka, left part. "Igrok" Route 6A

Igrok, 6A. M-t Maximeni (solo winter 2005)

Starts left of "Cherez ternii k zvezdam" (Through Thorns to Stars) from the first crack. Reach the crack by simple climbing. 10 m. Station on a belay ledge and a hook. The crux (7a FFA 2013) and interesting pitch is the first one. Further on, there are many 6b and 6c pitches, but lots of loose rocks.

Route Description:

R0–R1. Upwards through cracks using artificial aids, with a short climb to the station about 3 meters. Station on a small ledge. 2 bolts. 35 m VIA3

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A description of the ascent to the summit of Morcheka mountain in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, possible ascent routes, photographs, and a path diagram.

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Descriptions of mountaineering routes on Mount Morcheka in Kabardino-Balkaria, including climbing history and technical information on routes of varying difficulty.

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Description of the "Zmeika" 6A0 route on the left part of Morcheka with a detailed indication of the complexity categories and tactics for passing individual sections.

Morcheka, left side. "Zmeika" Route 6A0

Zmeika, 6A (VI+A3) Lavri­nen­ko A., Maxi­men­ya A., Yare­chev­sky V., 2002 (Upper part (R7–R9) was climbed by the rope team Ershov — Savochokin in 1980–1989) Start is between "Ded83" and "Classica", there is an inscription.

Route Description:

0–1 Along a slab with blind slots and shell-like cavities under a slightly overhanging "belly". Further left for 2 m to a ledge, and through the "belly" - 2 holes for a skyhook, then along the terrain (there are 2 drilled holes):

  • move to a chip,
  • climb up along it,
  • then climb along the slab,
  • reach the belay station. Bolt + own pitons. 40 m
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The new route "Machombo" (6A, VI, A3, 335 m) on Morcheka, first ascent by Alexander Lavrynenko and Vladimir Mogila in January 2002.

Morcheka — 13

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko («Odes­sit»), Odes­sa «Machom­bo» (6А, VI, A3, 335 m) or Morcheka 2002 At the end of January, Volodya Mogi­la and I completed the route through the center of Morcheka that we had started at the end of November. In November, bad weather and various life difficulties hindered our plans, and we were only able to return under the mountain on January 15. The idea of the route underwent changes during the preparation for the ascent:

  • The initial plan was to follow the Bodnik route, taking a shortcut through a monolithic, overhanging slab («belly») in its lower part.
  • Then we decided to try to straighten out the 2nd rope of the route.
  • After completing the 1st rope according to Bodnik, we decided that the route should have its own beginning, and we managed to achieve that too.
  • An independent exit to the summit was a natural progression.
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A description of the passage of the "Center" route (6A) to the Morcheka summit with a detailed account of the technique and difficulties in various sections.

Mor­cheka — 15

The "Cen­ter" Route (6A)

First Ascent: Za­syp­kin — Khor­khe Ko­rys Ar­ti­cle au­thor: Mak­sim Kos­trov Route Scheme The weather is sunny. We are in no hurry. We decided to hang three ropes, lift the platform, a sack with cargo, and then rappel on that day. We hang and level the platform — we will pull it out in its assembled form. Then I hang all sorts of "hardware" on myself and start climbing. Kirill is belaying. Sergey Tretyakov hung a camera and a camcorder on himself — on this ascent, he is in the role of a cameraman. Up a thin crack to the left, then across a mirror-like surface through a white patch to a small flake. From it, a long, shallow undercutting goes to the right and slightly upwards. "It looks like it was pressed in with a log," said Yura Kruglov when explaining the route.

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