Morcheka — 13

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko («Odessit»), Odessa «Machombo» (6А, VI, A3, 335 m)

or Morcheka 2002

At the end of January, Volodya Mogila and I completed the route through the center of Morcheka that we had started at the end of November. In November, bad weather and various life difficulties hindered our plans, and we were only able to return under the mountain on January 15.

The idea of the route underwent changes during the preparation for the ascent:

The initial plan was to follow the Bodnik route, taking a shortcut through a monolithic, overhanging slab («belly») in its lower part.
Then we decided to try to straighten out the 2nd rope of the route.
After completing the 1st rope according to Bodnik, we decided that the route should have its own beginning, and we managed to achieve that too.
An independent exit to the summit was a natural progression.

There was enough relief everywhere, so there are no bolt tracks or series of holes on the route. On each rope, there is a section that requires free climbing, and some ropes are entirely climbed. Since most of the route was traversed in complex weather conditions, it's currently difficult to determine its real complexity; a second passage is needed.

(Editor's note: in February 2002, Alexander Maksimenya (Minsk) solo-climbed this route in a few days)

Route Characteristics

Length 335 m (8 ropes). Average steepness 80°. Sections: difficulty category 6B 240 m, difficulty category 5B 90 m. Bolt hooks 31 pcs (including 10 station hooks). Holes for D6 mm skyhooks — 16. Climbing hours — 38

Route Description

The start of the route is to the left of «Center» (6A), on the wall, an arrow is scratched, and the name of the route is written.

R0–R1

The first rope — almost entirely on artificial technical aids (IТО), skyhooks, hooks, small stoppers, 4 bolts. The last 10 m coincide with the Bodnik route («Arsenal»). Station on a ledge. VI+, A3, 45 m

R1–R2

Further up, through «shells» and blind cracks, partially climbing, but a lot of ITO:

hooks
small friends
skyhook

there are 3 bolts (30 m, 70°, VI, A2). In the upper part, climbing (15 m, V) to the station. VI, A2, 45 m

R2–R3

From the station upwards, through an internal corner, towards the «belly» (15 m, 70°, V+), then on ITO:

hooks
skyhooks
5 bolts

station on 2 bolts (35 m, VI, A2–A3) VI, A3, 50 m

R3–R4

From the station upwards to the left, on skyhooks 5–7 meters, then climbing to a ledge. Further up, move to the left of the rusty streak:

holes
3 bolts
relief skyhooks; the last meters are climbed, crossing into the base of the internal corner. Here is the station. VI, A3, 30 m

R4–R5

Up the corner (can be climbed, but grass interferes) (20 m, VI), then up the wall, climbing 10 m, reach a bolt. Further up the slab, partially climbing, partially on ITO (hooks, 3 bolts) upwards to the left, exit to the station at the end of the 6th rope of «Classics» (5Б).

Continuation of the route:

VI, A2, 50 m, 85° R5–R6
The next rope coincides with «Classics»
Station on a ledge with a large bolt
V, 45 m, 70°

R6–R7

From the station straight up, exit to a spall («Classics» goes left). On the summit of the spall is a station. V, 35 m, 70°

R7–R8

From the Mountain.RU news feed on May 24, 2002: A pair of Latvian climbers (Kristaps Liepins and Janis Kigurs) climbed a new and one of the most technical routes in Crimea — «Machombo» (6А, VI, A3, 335 m) on Morcheka in mid-May. The passage took about 24 hours because the pair «caught» rain on the wall and didn't climb very quickly. Kristaps Liepins led the entire route.

Kristaps Liepins (President of the Latvian Alpine Association): «The impressions are very good, as the route was very interesting, and we hadn't done anything like it in Crimea before. The most unpleasant moment on the route was on the rope R3–R4, where the slap under the skyhook came off, which was probably used by all previous climbers — we had to replace the skyhook with a smaller one and climb on very «invisible» relief — drilling holes is not our style. I want to thank all Morcheka climbers for the well-arranged bivouac under the wall and especially those climbers who first climbed such an interesting route as «Machombo»!»

From the summit of the spall, through a crack curving to the right upwards, then up the monolithic wall (rock hooks, bolt) exit to a shallower slope. Further, free climbing 10 m to the summit.

Difficulty category 6B
Length: 35 m
Angle of inclination: 85°

The route is beautiful and logical, with a bolt hook D12 mm, 120 mm long, with a ring for descent at each station. Good luck to all who follow!