Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Mor­che­ka — a for­got­ten mountain. Guide­book. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

(3.07.2006) A new route has been ascended on Morcheka — “Сезон дож­дей” (Rainy Season) 6A F6b, A3, 340 m Between June 23rd and 26th, a new route — “Сезон дож­дей” (Rainy Season) 6A F6b, A3, 340 m — was ascended on Morcheka. The authors of the route are Odessans Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko and Taras Tsush­ko. The name of the route reflects the weather during the ascent:

• Rain every day
• Waterfalls on the wall
• Dries quickly In its middle part, the new route coincides with the routes of Grish­chen­ko and Geni­ush — about 90 m in common, the rest is new. Information provided by: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Mor­cheka — 21

Author: Ana­to­liy Ge­ni­ush, Sev­astopol The route was ascended in the classic alpinist style from bottom to top. The total time spent on the ascent was approximately 5 full working days (about 45 hours). The total length is approximately 260–280 m, 6 ropes of 45–60 m (the 6th rope is not counted). Currently, it is one of the most complex and interesting routes on the wall. One can even speak of its uniqueness, which lies in the fact that, with a complexity comparable to the "Machombo" route, it is completely new from the ground to the yayla. Only 15–20 meters of the entire path were not a first ascent. And it is quite logical: there are only 22 bolt hanger hooks on the route, and even those are more than needed. Section R0. The route starts from a large pine tree 10 m to the left and below the start of the "Brov'" route. Difficult climbing, initially between the wall and the pine tree, leads to a shelf with "live" stones. Bel­ay is done using pitons or the pine tree. Sec­tion R0–R1. From the shelf, move left to the mirror of the wall to a bolt hanger hook 2 m of climbing. Fur­ther — aid climbing. To the left of the bolt, a crack goes up, along which movement is done on pitons 5 m, then a transition to the left 1 m to a nut, and movement along another crack up and slightly to the right to a bolt hanger hook 7–8 m — predominantly on small stops, sometimes on pitons. After 3 m, another bolt hanger hook, then to the left and up 4–5 m to a powerful bolt.

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B6%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Morcheka — 23

Author: Ivan Ershov, Moscow. "Variant" route, 6+ cat. (Mt. Morcheka, November 1986, I. Ershov) From the parking spot under the wall (in the cirque), follow the path under the right part of Mt. Morcheka's wall. The route starts to the right of two characteristic pine trees, the right one of which touches the wall with its top — about 10 meters to the right of the second pine. From the sloping shelf (slab), go straight up to a bolt (aid climbing), then up and slightly left along a blind crack. Characteristic features:

• pilasters;
• only with aid climbing;
• extremely careful;
• block placements;
• constructions like stopper + piton;
• small-sized stoppers.

The "Victoria" route (2B) was laid on Mshatka Kaya mountain on May 10, 2011 by a team from Luhansk: Alexander Khoroshevsky and Nikita Popov. The overall impression of the route is a beautiful and logical double pitch, with pleasant and varied technical climbing, after which you want to express gratitude to the authors of the route for 2 reasons:

• the line turned out to be really beautiful,
• to spot the route on the wall, which is already oversaturated with other lines, you need to have talent. "Victoria" passes between the "PK" and "Vilka" routes along a system of cracks. Insurance is predominantly natural, with one bolt hammered at each station. There are also a few intermediate bolts. You need to approach the route along a clearly visible path leading to "PK". 20 meters before the base of the PK route, you need to traverse to the right with a height gain and climb onto a ledge under the base of the wall - there is a bolt hammered there, this is the start of the route. Mshatka Kaya mountain. Route lines. High-resolution photo: "Victoria" route (2B), general scheme. High-resolution photo: alpinist.biz "Victoria" route (2B). Detailed scheme. High-resolution photo. R4 station - our version of the passage, R4* - the first ascenders' version.