Merdven-Kayasы — 7. "Relax"

Difficulty: 5B VI A2 Author: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Kuz­men­ko A. Year of creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 8 Length: 375 m Time to complete: 5–8 hours Route description:

• From "Chertova lest­nitsa" ("Devil's Stair­case") along the up­per road ap­prox­i­mately 1 km to the east
• Fur­ther along the dirt road to the campsites
• Fur­ther along the trail to the wall. Start­ing point is near a large pine tree. The route goes along the bastion to the right of the Geni­ush route, in the up­per part it con­verges with the T͡Sush­ko and Geni­ush routes. R0–R1 60 m. Start from the tree to the right for 3 m, then up along the plane to a weak­ly ex­pressed mul­da and fur­ther to the left up­ward along the cor­ner over­grown with grass, reach the tree. Fur­ther slight­ly to the left and up­ward — ap­proach to the in­ter­nal cor­ner. Fur­ther along the in­ter­nal cor­ner, reach the top of the spall. Sta­tion. There is a bolt.

Merdven-Kaya­sy — 8. "Odessa Express"

Massif: Merdven-Kaya­sy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 6A VI A2 Author: Lavri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of route creation: 2008 Length: 365 m Route description: From the "Chertova lest­nitsa" (Devil's Staircase) along the upper road approximately 1 km east, then along the dirt road to the parking areas, then along the trail, and then along easy rocks and talus to approach the wall. The route passes through the center of the bastion, then crosses a belt of simple rocks, moves left under a clearly visible gap cutting through the summit tower. And through it, it leads to the yayla. R0–R1 40 m

• Through simple rocks
• Left upwards
• Reach a sloping grassy ledge Station on juniper. 2B R1–R2, 40 m. From the station upwards — left, along a slab into a reclining angle with grass (there is a bolt). Along the angle, left upwards, to a small tree, then through an internal angle to reach a small ledge. From the ledge upwards and slightly right, through a system of cracks to a narrow ledge — here is the station.

On the right side of the "Green corner" through the eaves 5A, VI, 400 m, V. Timofeev, 1981. The route can be started along the left CPC, or like the previous route, the main thing is to reach the large ledge. R3–R4: Up the cleft, to the tree. Station on the tree. IV, 30 m R4–R5: From the tree upwards along a steep, interrupted cleft 10 m, V+, further it becomes easier, along an overgrown cleft 40 m, IV. Station on a ledge. V+, 50 m R5–R6: Up the cleft, climbing is difficult, exit to a small ledge in front of the eaves. There is a bolt. VI, A1, 40 m R6–R7: From the station up, under the eaves. The first one is bypassed on the left, then traverse to the right, exit to the inner corner 10 m, V+, further up the system of inner corners 40 m, IV–V, station on a tree. V, 50 m From here, first along simple rocks 20 m, then walking along the slope to reach the yayla. From the "hardware" you will need:

• nuts
• cams

Merdven-Kayas — 9. "Easy Flirt"* — 385 m, VI, A3+, F6c, E4. Description

August 5, 2013 The route was ascended in a classic style, from bottom to top, without prior reconnaissance or processing from the top. The thread of the "Easy Flirt" route is indicated in white. Massif: Merdven-Kayas. This is one of the few massifs of great length in Crimea where there are still unclimbed main logical lines.

• Route length: 385 m
• Maximum complexity of free climbing sections: F6c, E4
• Maximum complexity of artificial climbing sections: A3(+)

Merdven-Kayas — 10. “Made­ra Krymskaya” (380 m, 5B, F6b+, E3, A2) — No bolts.

May 19, 2009 Yura Kruglov is climbing the second rope of the route. The second rope is a song. On Sunday, May 17, we ascended a new line on Merdven-Kayas (10 minutes walk along the upper road to the east from Chertova Lestnitsa). The route is “Made­ra Krymskaya”. It was because of this drink that, finding myself among stitched abstainers on Saturday evening and unnoticedly drinking it alone, I had to deviate from the previously planned line of the intended route in its upper part the next day. But even as it turned out, the “Madera” route more than justified my expectations.

Approach to the route, history of the place, descent, and our recommendations

The lower part of Merdven-Kayas wall was a popular training spot for climbers back when the upper road wasn't yet called the upper road. Buses between Sevastopol and Yalta would speed by on it. It's hard to imagine now... Among climbers, the lower part of the wall was known as “Khergiani rock.” The approach from the upper road to the foot of the wall takes a few minutes. These minutes can be shortened by car via a dirt road branching off the asphalt towards the wall. The road leads to a clearing with a great campsite. From the campsite to the start of the routes, it's less than a minute of slow walking.

Author: Yura Kryglov, Sevastopol "Madera Krymskaya" (380 m, 5B, F6b+, E3, A2) — a new route on Merdven-Kayasy. No bolts On Sunday, May 17, we completed a new line on Merdven-Kayasy (10 minutes walk along the upper road to the east from Chertova Lestnitsa). The route is called "Madera Krymskaya". Yura Kruglov is climbing the second rope of the route. The second rope is a song. It was because of this drink that, after finding myself in the company of stitched abstainers on Saturday evening and unnoticedly drinking it alone, I had to deviate from the pre-planned line of the intended route the next day in its upper part. But even as it turned out, the "Madera" route more than justified my expectations.

Approaching the route, history of the place, descent, and our recommendations

The lower part of Merdven-Kayasy wall was a popular training spot for rock climbers back when the upper road wasn't yet called upper. Buses on the Sevastopol-Yalta route would speed by on it. It's hard to imagine now... Among rock climbers, the lower part of the wall was known as "Khergiani Rock". The approach from the upper road to the foot of the wall takes a few minutes. But you can shorten even these few minutes by driving a car on a dirt road that branches off the asphalt towards the wall. The road leads to a clearing with an excellent camping spot. It takes less than a minute of slow walking from the campsite to the start of the routes.

Author: Anatoly Geniush, Sevastopol. Description of the first ascent of the route "Doroga uehala" 5B cat. on Merdven-Kaya, S-E wall, to the right of Hergiani rock. The group consisting of A. Geniush, V. Kudryavtsev, A. Lyashko, on March 29, 2008. The start of the route is under the sparse trees to the left of the large inner corner - a chimney in the middle part of the South-East wall. The first rope is an easy climb of 3 cat. upwards and to the right to the last right tree (40 m). Further (second rope) - difficult climbing along an oblique, heavily destroyed crack:

• up and to the right 20 m;
• move to the right 3 m;
• straight up through the cleft 3 m - entrance to the inner corner, turning into a chimney of medium width. At the bottom of the chimney - an uncomfortable station on закладках and stone corks. Further climbing through a narrow, overhanging chimney, turning into an overhanging inner corner with a cleft. Large friends are needed for protection. At the end of the corner, where the cleft strongly overhangs:

Mer­ven-Ka­ya­sy — 4. «Se­vas­to­pol-230», VI cat. diff., A3, F6c, Е4.

First ascenders:

• Yuri Kруг­lov (Se­vas­to­pol)
• Vlad­imir Odo­yev (Se­vas­to­pol) Date: August 6, 2013 The route was ascended from bottom to top in the classic style. Climbing hours: 20. Pho­tographs of the rou­te sections «Se­vas­to­pol–230», the ap­proach path and gen­eral in­for­ma­tion can be found here. The rou­te thread in not very good we­ather: The «Se­vas­to­pol–230» route — view from below

Author: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol

"Sevastopol-230" — a new route on Merdven-Kayasy

The impetus for the new route was the first ascent of the "Trudnosti" route on Merdven-Kayasy, which starts from the sap. The angle dimensions at Forosskiy Kant. (a virgin vertical route on it) The weather was constantly changing, while sitting in the wardroom, sometimes with Oleg. Patience to sit PС (skis are provided) on Saturday, March 30, we planned to pass in April, but the weather was pouring rain until then. The attempt to climb PС took place. And finally, on Saturday, April 6, the weather presented a gift — we climbed and descended! The route turned out to be complex, interesting, very logical, beautiful, and memorable. To date, it is the most challenging route on Merdven-Kayasy. Not a single piton "for passage" was needed, but we equipped the stations along the way with stationary bolts from Kong and Fixe (with rings). In the upper part, the route connects with the "Bezzavetnyy" route. The terrain everywhere allows for natural protection. Route characteristics:

• Tense climbing with a transition to artificial technical climbing (a.t.c.) and back to free climbing — a characteristic feature of the route.

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/