East European Highlands
Route Description: Четверка
SSummitMateDescriptions of mountaineering routes on Morcheka mountain in Kabardino-Balkaria, information on approaches and terrain, tips for passing routes of varying difficulty.
Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/
Route Description: Труба
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Morcheka via the "Truba" route with a detailed description of adventures and impressions.
«Truba»
I never thought I'd become a mountaineer; I wanted a quiet, peaceful life.
I was quietly saving up for my wedding, but my dear left me. And then I decided not to waste the money and bought mountaineering gear instead. And here I am again, on a train, heading somewhere. This time it's Crimea, Parkovoe village, Morcheka mountain. I'm a very ambitious person, and when I set my mind on something, I go all out. I might initially overestimate my abilities, but what always reassures me is that I check them, just in case. Enough, not enough? :) So, the goal is set:
- Warm up with the Truba route,
- Then on to Machombo.
First day.
We arrived in Sevastopol around 11:00, bought some food and wine, and took a minibus to Parkovoe village. After getting off at the stop, we asked for directions and headed towards the linear house. My first deep impression was the quarry and the excavations. The only thing that came to mind was a phrase from the movie Terminator: "And the machines rose from the ashes of nuclear fires." All around us were:
- Abandoned machinery,
Route Description: Столб
SSummitMateA description of the tourist route to Morcheka mountain in Kuznetsk Alatau, including technical and logistical information for climbers.
Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/
Route Description: Орел
SSummitMateA description of the climbing route to Mount Morcheka, located in the Subpolar Urals, with a detailed guide and recommendations for climbers.
Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/
Route Description: Фантик-93
SSummitMateDescriptions of routes to the summit of Morcheka mountain in the Sayan Mountains, including categories of difficulty and technical characteristics.
Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B6%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/
Route Description: Дед-83
SSummitMateA description of the climbing route to the summit of Mount Morcheka in the Subpolar Urals, including technical information and a guide to the area.
Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/
Route Description: Классика
SSummitMateA description of the climbing route to Mount Morcheka in the Khibiny Mountains, information on the terrain, difficulty, and history of ascents.
Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/
Route Description: Классика
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent via the "Classic" route (cat. 5B) to Morcheka peak, including details on the ascent and overnight stay in the grotto.
Morcheka — 12
"Classica" Route (5Б)
First ascent: Jorge Kornyś
Author of the report: Maxim Kostrov
A long, 10 cm wide groove goes up. To avoid dirtying my shoes, I place a flat stone on the wet moss at the bottom of the groove and climb up to a small ledge using counter-pressure. Previously, a large slab lay on this ledge. Now it lies at the bottom under the route.
The groove turns into a crack, which narrows and gradually turns left. Then the crack widens again and leads to a pair of bolts under an overhang.
- 1st rope — 45 m, 85°, V (R0–R1) Sergey Tretyakov approaches from below, and I continue further. I traverse the overhang from the right using a mirror-like surface and climb up to an inclined ledge via an internal corner.
- 2nd rope — 45 m, 80°, IV (R1–R2) From here, a large pine tree in the middle of the wall is clearly visible. It's about one rope length away via inclined ledges upwards to the right. The R3 stations of the "Center" (6А) and "Skayway" (6Б) routes are located near this pine tree.
Route Description: Кенсицкого
SSummitMateA description of the hike to Morcheka mountain in the Azau ridge in the Elbrus region, including technical information and a route guide.
Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/
Route Description: Рыжий угол
SSummitMateA description of the tourist route to Morcheka mountain in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, category of difficulty, technical information and recommendations.
Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/