Morcheka, left side. "Zmeika" Route 6A0
Zmeika, 6A (VI+A3) Lavrinenko A., Maximenya A., Yarechevsky V., 2002 (Upper part (R7–R9) was climbed by the rope team Ershov — Savochokin in 1980–1989)
Start is between "Ded83" and "Classica", there is an inscription.
Route Description:
0–1 Along a slab with blind slots and shell-like cavities under a slightly overhanging "belly". Further left for 2 m to a ledge, and through the "belly" - 2 holes for a skyhook, then along the terrain (there are 2 drilled holes):
- move to a chip,
- climb up along it,
- then climb along the slab,
- reach the belay station. Bolt + own pitons. 40 m
VIA2+ 1–2 Right for 2 m to a crack, further along the crack bending left, mainly on aid climbing, in the upper part - free climbing, belay station on a ledge. Bolt + pitons. 35 m
V+A2 3–4. From a tree up and left, climbing to a small tree. From it, a pendulum swing to an internal corner, further along the corner - to a shelf. Belay station. 35 m
VIA1 4–5. The rope coincides with the Classica route. From the belay station up under a cornice, further right, bypassing the cornice, and along the internal corner - to a ledge with a pine tree. Belay station. 30 m
V+ 5–6. Along the ledge left, around the corner, then up simple rocks, under an overhanging crack. Belay station on a ledge before the crack. 40–45 m II
6–7. Up the crack, mainly on aid climbing, in the upper part - free climbing to reach "Morkovka". From it, it's better to move left to the "Orla" belay station. 40 m VIA2
7–8. Return to Morkovka and climb up along the серповидной (sickle-shaped) crack on aid climbing. Belay station on a small ledge. There is a drilled hole. 25 m VA3
8–9. From the belay station, right to a crack and up along the crack, gradually right, to reach a chip. Here the route converges with the Classica. 60 m VIA2
9–10. Along the crack, partly interrupted, to reach a ledge. From the ledge up along a corner-chimney to reach the yayla. 60 m (20 m VIA1, 40 m IV)
Morkovka. Routes on the left side
Source: alpinist.biz
