Report

On the ascent of Amin Brakk peak, 5850 m, via the west face, Karakoram. June 15 – July 30, 2004, cat. diff. 6B Russian Championship in the high-altitude technical class

• Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation
• Coach: Yu.P. Tinin
• Leader: V.V. Rozov
• Moscow 2004

Passport

Open XIX EAAC Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report on the ascent of the national team of FAiS, Kiev (Ukraine) to the summit of Amin Brakk (5850 m) via the Western wall. "Czech Express" route. Category 6B. Karakoram. Pakistan. July 2010. CIS Championship in the high-altitude technical class. Team coach: Lavrenko A.V. Team leader: Kopteva M.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Karakoram, Nangma Region
2. Amin Brakk peak via the Northwest wall.

Russian Mountaineering Championship. Altitude Class. August 2011

Report

Combined team of FASiL St. Petersburg on Great Trango Tower (6237 m) via the bastion of the Northwest Wall. Route "Parallel World". First ascent. Proposed category complexity 6B (VI+, 7b, A3). Karakoram. Pakistan. Team leader: Kopteva M.V. Team coaches: Chapliński I.O., Kapitanov O.V. St. Petersburg, 2011

Climbing Passport

1. Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier area.
2. Peak - Great Trango Tower (Southwest), 6237 m. Via the bastion of the Northwest Wall.

Ascent Passport

1. Karakoram mountain system
2. Broad Peak, 8048 m
3. Category of difficulty — 5B
4. West Ridge of the North Ridge, Austrian 1957, combined
5. Route height difference — 2946 m. Route length — 5714 m.
6. Pitons used on the route (Korean expedition pitons): total — 52 left on the mountain — 52

Ascent Passport

1. Central Karakoram, upper reaches of Baltoro Glacier.
2. Broad Peak (8047 m), Southwest Face, first ascent
3. Submitted as category 6B complexity
4. Route type – combined
5. Route height difference – 3247 m Route length – 6067 m Section length: category V – 93 m, category VI – 12 m. Average slope: main part of the route (sections R18–R70) – 54°, entire route – 31.5°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, bolted – 0

First Russian Expedition to Gasherbrum 2 Climbing Passport

1. Karakoram, Baltoro region
2. Gasherbrum 2 8035 m, from the south (classic route)
3. 6A category of difficulty, variation
4. Ice-snow route
5. Elevation gain of the route: 2935 m. Route length 8600 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 240 m. Average slope 28°.

Russian Championship. High-altitude class.

Report

on the ascent to Latok III (6949 m) Route on the left part of the SW wall. 6B cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 10.2 Karakoram mountains.
2. Latok III 6949 m, via left part of SW wall.
3. 6B complexity category.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route characteristics:

Map diagram General photo of the summit. Routes from left to right:

• 1 — team's route
• 2 — English route 87 (Saunders, 1987)

Description of the Climbing Area

Spantik or Golden Peak is located in the second-highest mountain system in the world — Karakoram, which directly continues Hindukush, rising between Pamir and Himalayas. In particular, the road that leads to the climbing area passes directly through the junction of the three greatest mountain systems in the world:

• Himalayas
• Karakoram

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical Class 2019

REPORT

on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ascent Record

1. Region — Karakoram, Pakistan.
2. Peak — Great Trango Tower 6150 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
3. Claimed grade — 6B, first ascent.
4. Route characteristic — rock.
5. Route description:
   • wall section height difference — 1820 m
   • route length — 2100 m
   • length of 6th category sections — 850 m, 5th category — 1025 m
   • average steepness of the entire route — 70°