Karakoram

Mountain range74,607.25 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the first ascent of the Southwest Face of **Trango Tower** (6237 m) in Karakorum, made by a Russian team in 2007 via a Category 6B route.

Ascent Record

  1. Region — Karakoram, Trango group.
  2. Peak — Great Trango (SW), 6237 m via the bastion of the northwestern wall.
  3. Proposed — 6B cat. dif. (ED VI+, 7a, A3), first ascent.
  4. Route characteristic — combined.

5. Route Description

wall section height difference — 1830 m, route length — 2100 m, sections of 6B cat. dif. — 1050 m, 5 cat. dif. — 530 m, average steepness of the wall section — 69°. 6. Left on the route: pitons — 18, including bolted — 12; "chocks" — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 12, including for platform installation — 7; total ITC used — 500. 7. Number of climbing hours — 113, days — 13 (including processing).

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Climb description of a Kazakh team on Hidden Peak (8068 m) in Karakoram via a combined route, rated 6A in difficulty.

  1. Karakorum mountain system
  2. Hidden Peak, 8068 m
  3. Cat. of diff. — 6A approximately
  4. Route type — combined
  5. Route elevation gain — 2768 m Route length — 12180 m. Section lengths:
  • V cat. of diff. — 80 m
  • VI cat. of diff. — 0
  1. Pitons left on the route: total — 25 Pitons used:
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Ascent to the summit of Hidden Peak (8068 m) in Karakoram via the Northwest Face, route difficulty category, team composition, and ascent details.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing area: Karakoram
  2. Ascent class: High-altitude
  3. Peak: Hidden Peak (8068 m) via NW wall couloir (Japanese couloir)
  4. Route difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain from base camp 2918 m
    • length of sections with 5th category difficulty 400 m
    • average steepness (6500 m – summit) 50°
  6. Pitons driven
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**First ascent** of Shingu Charpa peak (5800 m) via the east face, Karakoram, Pakistan, 2007

Ascent Log

  1. Mountain range: Karakoram Gorge: Nangma. Peak name: Shingu Charpa (This peak is not listed in the 2001 classification table).
  2. Route name: "Never More" via the Central Eastern wall
  3. Estimated difficulty category: 6B first ascent
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1600 m Route length: 2360 m
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