Ascent Log

1. Mountain range: Karakoram Gorge: Nangma. Peak name: Shingu Charpa (This peak is not listed in the 2001 classification table).
2. Route name: "Never More" via the Central Eastern wall
3. Estimated difficulty category: 6B first ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1600 m Route length: 2360 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Karakoram
2. Ascent class: High-altitude
3. Peak: Hidden Peak (8068 m) via NW wall couloir (Japanese couloir)
4. Route difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain from base camp 2918 m
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty 400 m
   • average steepness (6500 m – summit) 50°
6. Pitons driven

1. Karakorum mountain system
2. Hidden Peak, 8068 m
3. Cat. of diff. — 6A approximately
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain — 2768 m Route length — 12180 m. Section lengths:

• V cat. of diff. — 80 m
• VI cat. of diff. — 0

6. Pitons left on the route: total — 25 Pitons used:

Ascent Record

1. Region — Karakoram, Trango group.
2. Peak — Great Trango (SW), 6237 m via the bastion of the northwestern wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. dif. (ED VI+, 7a, A3), first ascent.
4. Route characteristic — combined.

5. Route Description

wall section height difference — 1830 m, route length — 2100 m, sections of 6B cat. dif. — 1050 m, 5 cat. dif. — 530 m, average steepness of the wall section — 69°. 6. Left on the route: pitons — 18, including bolted — 12; "chocks" — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 12, including for platform installation — 7; total ITC used — 500. 7. Number of climbing hours — 113, days — 13 (including processing).

Ascent Record

1. Region — Karakoram, Pakistan.
2. Peak — Great Trango Tower 6150 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
3. Claimed grade — 6B, first ascent.
4. Route characteristic — rock.
5. Route description:
   • wall section height difference — 1820 m
   • route length — 2100 m
   • length of 6th category sections — 850 m, 5th category — 1025 m
   • average steepness of the entire route — 70°

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical Class 2019

REPORT

on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Map diagram General photo of the summit. Routes from left to right:

• 1 — team's route
• 2 — English route 87 (Saunders, 1987)

Description of the Climbing Area

Spantik or Golden Peak is located in the second-highest mountain system in the world — Karakoram, which directly continues Hindukush, rising between Pamir and Himalayas. In particular, the road that leads to the climbing area passes directly through the junction of the three greatest mountain systems in the world:

• Himalayas
• Karakoram

Russian Championship. High-altitude class.

Report

on the ascent to Latok III (6949 m) Route on the left part of the SW wall. 6B cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 10.2 Karakoram mountains.
2. Latok III 6949 m, via left part of SW wall.
3. 6B complexity category.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route characteristics:

First Russian Expedition to Gasherbrum 2 Climbing Passport

1. Karakoram, Baltoro region
2. Gasherbrum 2 8035 m, from the south (classic route)
3. 6A category of difficulty, variation
4. Ice-snow route
5. Elevation gain of the route: 2935 m. Route length 8600 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 240 m. Average slope 28°.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Karakoram, upper reaches of Baltoro Glacier.
2. Broad Peak (8047 m), Southwest Face, first ascent
3. Submitted as category 6B complexity
4. Route type – combined
5. Route height difference – 3247 m Route length – 6067 m Section length: category V – 93 m, category VI – 12 m. Average slope: main part of the route (sections R18–R70) – 54°, entire route – 31.5°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, bolted – 0