M22. Gvandra Main — East

(combined route, cat. difficulty) See routes M14, M16, M18 — M20.

• when moving from the Central summit, pass the gap in the upper part of the ice couloir descending into it;
• when descending from the East summit, be careful, especially in bad weather, — one can end up on a slope that descends from the pre-summit to the right, which is very similar in its character to the correct slope leading towards Ak-Tyube pass. The false slope ends in ice-serac falls!
• departure time from Myrdy bivouac — at 2–3 a.m.;
• it takes 12–14 hours to complete the route;
• the traverse can be planned with an intermediate bivouac on the Gvandra ridge.

M21. Gvandra East — Main (combined route, 3A cat. of diff., p/p L. Chasovnikovs, 1937) See routes M14, M16, M18–M20.

• when descending from the Eastern peak via route M16, it should be taken into account that the description is made in the opposite direction, and all gendarmes will be overcome not on ascent, but on descent;
• in bad weather or in fog, descending from the Main peak, one can lose orientation and go to the right earlier from the upper plateau of Gvand — dry. There is a danger of going to very steep slopes with large crevices and, most importantly, to the southern slopes of the ridge from Gvandra Main. These slopes, going in the direction of the False Myrdy pass, end in a hanging icefall. To

Gvandra Centralnaya - Glavnaya, 2A

Route description:

The path to the saddle between the Eastern and Central peaks is described in route M1 6. From the saddle, turn left and, having overcome a small gendarme "head-on", reach the "saw" - a heavily jagged rock ridge. Bypass the "saw" on the left along shelves and small walls. Then, along a 200-meter snowy ridge, reach the "dome". From the "dome", descend to the left to a steep snow-ice couloir. Cross it below the ridge line (belay!). In low-snow conditions, a wide crevasse appears in the upper part of the couloir, extending to the top of the ridge. To cross the couloir, it is necessary to descend to the bottom of the crevasse and ascend the ice wall on its opposite side. Beyond the couloir, ascend a simple scree ridge to the Central peak. From the saddle - 4 hours. From the Central peak, descend a 10-meter wall to a saddle leading to Gvandra Glavnaya. Then, bypass the ridge cornices via couloir R4. If there are no cornices, do not enter the couloir, but move along the ridge up to R6. From here, along a 150-meter section of simple rocks to the left of the ridge, reach a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend to the Main peak along a narrow, turning into a sharp, snowy ridge with a steep rise (belay!). To the right are huge cornices, to the left are steeply falling snowy slopes. From the Central peak - 2 hours. The descent from the peak to the saddle is via the ascent route. Then, down to the right along a steep snowy slope with a bergschrund at the bottom to the snowy fields of the upper Gvandra plateau. Walk across the plateau under the slopes of the Central peak in the direction of the saddle and then descend along the ascent route towards the Lozhny Myrd y pass. From the Main peak to the bivouac - 3 hours.

• departure time from the Myrd y bivouac should be no later than 4 am.

Dalar Peak — 3979 m

Ascent from the south — Cat. 4A difficulty (Description as you move towards the summit) The path from the camp to Dalar Pass — see the description of the Cat. 3B route. From Dalar Pass, along the snowy slope to the left, bypassing the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar and the counterforts of Bolshoy Dalar, to the snowy isthmus between the wall of the II counterfort (on the right) and the "sheep's foreheads" (on the left). Ascend up the snow and, at the end of the isthmus, turn right onto smoothed rocks and exit onto the shoulder of the II counterfort. This is a bivouac site. First control point. From Dalar Pass — 2 hours 30 minutes. From the bivouac, to the right of the characteristic wall "camel", exit onto the ledges to a 10-meter wall. Go straight through the wall (with pitons!) onto the scree and ascend up and to the right onto a snowy slope with a slope of up to 30°. Traverse it, avoiding rocky outcrops, and, to the right of a large boulder, exit onto broken rocks and continue ascending to the saddle of the main eastern ridge of the summit tower. From the bivouac — 2 hours.

Dalar Uzunkol — description of the 4A climbing route from SK Greta

Approach via the Zapadny Dalar glacier to the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend to the pass along a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which is overcome via a bridge or ravine. On the pass, under the rock outcrops of the Kirpich summit ridge, is a bivouac site. From the pass, descend south, then along ledges and slopes, bypass the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar. Along snowy slopes, ascend under the rocks leading to the saddle between Maly Dalar on the left and Dalar on the right. Ascent to the saddle:

• Initially, it goes along small ledges, then along an internal angle with a stop R1.

Dalar via Northwest ridge, peak Shokoladny, combined, cat. 4B

Route description:

From the bivouac, traverse the plateau to reach the foot of peak Shokoladny. Ascend the snow and scree slopes, transitioning to broken rocks in the upper section, to reach the peak (category 2A difficulty). The ascent from the bivouac takes approximately 1.5 hours. From the peak's summit, descend steep rocks to the left and downwards, circumventing the first drop of the ridge via chimneys and internal corners. From the second drop of the ridge, perform a rappel to a narrow saddle adjacent to the "Palets" gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, then rappel leftwards to a ledge and follow it to regain the ridge. Subsequently, descend 25 meters down steep rocks and perform another rappel down an overhanging wall. The broken rocks lead to a saddle between peak Shokoladny and Dalar. Bivouac sites are available on the left, beneath the overhangs. The descent from the peak's summit takes around 2 hours. From the saddle, traverse rightwards along ledges that cut through Dalar's western wall, eventually leading to the main ridge beneath the summit tower. The ledges vary in width and have a general inclination to the right. From R8, a narrow cleft ascends upwards, culminating in a ledge beneath a couloir with a waterfall. Ascend via the couloir-chimney and a series of ledges (R10), overcoming a gendarme on the ridge "head-on," to reach a snowy and icy ascent leading to the junction of the north-eastern and north-western walls of the summit tower. From R13 (end of the ascent), a series of ledges traverse along the wall to R16 (avoid the edge of the ledges due to loose rocks!). From the upper ledge, ascend a narrow crevice to a vertical wall (R17–R19), then again via a crevice to reach a gap in the summit ridge (R21).

Report

on the ascent to the summit of DALAR from the West along the rocky triangle of the Western wall a group of instructors from the mountaineering camp of CS DSO “Spartak” senior instructor ZHEMCHUZHNIKOV Yu.A., instructor LEONOVICH O.A. July 20–23, 1975

Route progression

Day 1 (July 20)

We left the Uzunkol mountaineering camp at 2:30, planning that an early arrival at the bivouac under the route would allow us to process the beginning of the wall. However, the approach took us longer than we expected: heavy backpacks significantly slowed our pace. We arrived at the bivouac at the end of the moraine on the plateau under the wall at 17:30.

Brief Characteristics of Dalar Peak

Dalar Peak (elevation 3981 m above sea level) is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge. It is 25 km west-southwest of Elbrus. The chain of peaks (Filter, Zamok, Dvoinyashka, Dalar, and Shokoladny) bounds the cirque of the Bolshoy Kichkinokol glacier from the south, east, and west, giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Uzunkol River. The first ascent to Dalar Peak was made in 1937 via route 3B cat. sl. After 1960, other routes were climbed and classified on Dalar:

• 5B on the North Face;
• 5B on the NE ridge;
• 4B from Shokoladny Peak;
• 4A from the south. The ridge from the east remained, which was traversed in the reverse direction (on descent) by a group from CSKA in 1962 during the traverse of the Kichkinokol horseshoe. The route along the Eastern ridge is very logical.

Sports Group Composition

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship. Technical Altitude Class. 2024

Report on the Ascent of Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Eastern Ridge (V. Kavunenko Route, 1964), Category 5A, Combined Terrain

The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, under the auspices of the "OGK" (St. Petersburg). Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Andrey Vladimirovich Kichurchak, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Elena Vadimovna Aleksandrova, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coach, Sports Rank	D.M. Kiselev, Candidate Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, "OGK" Alpine Club

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class 2024. Report on the Ascent to Mt. Dalar via the East Ridge (Kavunenko Route, 1964) 5A Category of Complexity.

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Strizhko Yulia Gennadyevna, 2nd sports rank.
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Radkova Maria Alekseyevna, 2nd sports rank. Rodyukov Oleg Yuryevich, 2nd sports rank.