M21. Gvandra East — Main (combined route, 3A cat. of diff., p/p L. Chasovnikovs, 1937) See routes M14, M16, M18–M20.
- when descending from the Eastern peak via route M16, it should be taken into account that the description is made in the opposite direction, and all gendarmes will be overcome not on ascent, but on descent;
- in bad weather or in fog, descending from the Main peak, one can lose
orientation and go to the right earlier from the upper plateau of Gvand —
dry. There is a danger of going to very steep slopes with large crevices and, most importantly, to the southern slopes of the ridge from Gvandra Main. These slopes, going in the direction of the False Myrdy pass, end in a hanging icefall. To avoid this, you should:
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Move along the upper plateau of Gvandra to the slopes of the eastern edge (route M17)
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Descend along these slopes — in this case, the descent will lead exactly to the area of the False Myrdy pass
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departure time from the Myrdy bivouac is at 2–3 am;
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it takes 12–14 hours to overcome the route;
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the traverse can be planned with an intermediate bivouac on the Gvandra ridge.
