Gvandra Centralnaya - Glavnaya, 2A

Route description:

The path to the saddle between the Eastern and Central peaks is described in route M1 6. From the saddle, turn left and, having overcome a small gendarme "head-on", reach the "saw" - a heavily jagged rock ridge. Bypass the "saw" on the left along shelves and small walls. Then, along a 200-meter snowy ridge, reach the "dome". From the "dome", descend to the left to a steep snow-ice couloir. Cross it below the ridge line (belay!). In low-snow conditions, a wide crevasse appears in the upper part of the couloir, extending to the top of the ridge. To cross the couloir, it is necessary to descend to the bottom of the crevasse and ascend the ice wall on its opposite side. Beyond the couloir, ascend a simple scree ridge to the Central peak. From the saddle - 4 hours.

From the Central peak, descend a 10-meter wall to a saddle leading to Gvandra Glavnaya. Then, bypass the ridge cornices via couloir R4. If there are no cornices, do not enter the couloir, but move along the ridge up to R6.

From here, along a 150-meter section of simple rocks to the left of the ridge, reach a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend to the Main peak along a narrow, turning into a sharp, snowy ridge with a steep rise (belay!). To the right are huge cornices, to the left are steeply falling snowy slopes. From the Central peak - 2 hours.

The descent from the peak to the saddle is via the ascent route. Then, down to the right along a steep snowy slope with a bergschrund at the bottom to the snowy fields of the upper Gvandra plateau. Walk across the plateau under the slopes of the Central peak in the direction of the saddle and then descend along the ascent route towards the Lozhny Myrd y pass. From the Main peak to the bivouac - 3 hours.

• departure time from the Myrd y bivouac should be no later than 4 am.

Upper plateau of L. Gvandra