Dalar Uzunkol — description of the 4A climbing route from SK Greta

Approach via the Zapadny Dalar glacier to the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend to the pass along a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which is overcome via a bridge or ravine. On the pass, under the rock outcrops of the Kirpich summit ridge, is a bivouac site.

From the pass, descend south, then along ledges and slopes, bypass the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar. Along snowy slopes, ascend under the rocks leading to the saddle between Maly Dalar on the left and Dalar on the right.

Ascent to the saddle:

• Initially, it goes along small ledges, then along an internal angle with a stop R1.
• Further, moving slightly to the right, pass individual blocks, ledges, and slabs.
• Ascend to the saddle of the western ridge.

From the saddle, to the right of the main Dalar ridge, along heavily fragmented rocks, approach the snowpatch R5 («sickle» or «серп»).

Possibly, you will find this interesting:

• To the left of the snow, move along small scree and fragmented rocks
• Then move along the «sickle» towards the upper left corner of the slope, abutting a wide block of rock walls
• The «sickle» remains on the right

In the area where the ridge (on the left) transitions into the aforementioned block of walls, heading right above the «sickle», a series of chimneys begins — internal angles resembling each other.

The starting point of the rock ascent is the first chimney on the left R6. Ascend the chimney, then move right along a ledge and through a small ridge and internal angle, cross small grey slabs with a general angle of inclination to the left R9. Along the slabs and a short internal angle, exit onto a large scree ledge R11, encircling the summit tower (in bad weather, the slabs may have flow ice!).

From the Dalar pass — 5–8 hours.

Possibly, you will find this interesting: move along the ledge to the right until its end, where it is interrupted by a large ice-scree couloir R12. From the ledge, there is a short descent onto the snowy slopes of the couloir and a traverse towards a large black rock with a «cap» (a slab on its summit). Bypass the rock along the edge of the snow under the rocks and ascend along the snow onto the right edge of the couloir R14. From here:

• along couloirs, ledges, and walls of heavily fragmented rocks («live» rocks!)
• then along a short summit ridge, exit onto the Dalar summit

From the large ledge — 3–5 hours

Descent from the summit — via the «3B Dalar from the south» route or along the ascent path. In the latter case, upon reaching R11, build a cairn — it will serve as a landmark for correctly finding the descent from the ledge (demolish the cairn after yourself).

Recommendations: Possibly, you will find this interesting.

• in good weather, the ascent is completed without an intermediate bivouac;
• pay attention to correctly finding the exit to the saddle and determining the start of the route after passing the «sickle»;
• the rocks up to the ledge are mostly firm and monolithic;
• the ascent along the southern side of the tower passes through heavily fragmented rocks;
• crossing the couloir R12–R14 is technically complex and often avalanche-prone; in the middle part, under the snow, there is flow ice.□

From the site sk-greta.ru