Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF KYAJO RI VIA "THE CENTER OF THE WESTERN WALL" ROUTE, CATEGORY 6B, BY THE ROSTOV REGION ALPINISM TEAM FROM OCTOBER 2 TO OCTOBER 9, 2019

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Vasiliev Andrey Sergeevich, Master of Sports
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Osipov Ivan Dmitrievich, Master of Sports, Rybalchenko Dmitry Andreevich, Master of Sports, Shipilov Vitaly Viktorovich, Master of Sports
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Pyatnitsin Alexander Alekseevich, Spiridonov Alexander Semenovich
1.4	Organization	FAiS RO, a/c "Planeta"
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
2.1	Region	Himalayas, Solukhumbu region
2.2	Valley	Bhote Koshi river valley, Thame Valley
2.3	Section Number according to the 2013 Classification Table	10.1
2.4	Name and Height of the Peak	Kyajo Ri, 6186 m
2.5	Geographic Coordinates of the Peak (Latitude/Longitude), GPS Coordinates *(1)	27.909293, 86.670548
	3. Route Characteristics
3.1	Route Name	Via the center of the western wall
3.2	Proposed Category of Difficulty	6B
3.3	Degree of Route Exploration	First Ascent
3.4	Nature of the Route Terrain	Combined
3.5	Height Difference of the Route (Altimeter or GPS data)	1040 m
3.6	Route Length (in meters)	1487 m
3.7	Technical Elements of the Route (Total length of sections by category of difficulty, indicating terrain type: ice-snow, rock)	Category I combination — 185 m. Category II combination — 20 m. Category III combination — 145 m. Category IV combination — 155 m. Category V combination — 455 m. Category VI rock — 352 m. Category VI combination — 175 m. Rock VI, A3 — 173 m
3.8	Average Steepness of the Route, (°)	62°
3.9	Average Steepness of the Main Part of the Route, (°)	75°
3.10	Descent from the Summit	Via the southwest ridge, category 5A (approximately)
3.11	Additional Route Characteristics	Water is present on the route; difficulties with organizing bivouacs are possible (depending on snow volume on the route)
	4. Team Action Characteristics
:--:	:-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------:	:-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------:
4.1	Time in Motion (Team's Walking Hours, in hours and days)	66 hours, 7.5 days
4.2	Bivouacs	6 (3 bivouacs on ledges — reclining). The other three bivouacs were organized on snow lying on steep 60° rock slabs. Used a hammock to create a platform. Good snow conditions allowed literally shaping the platform; under different conditions, organizing comfortable bivouacs may be impossible without a platform.
4.3	Route Processing Time	10 hours, 1 day (October 2, 2019)
4.4	Start of the Route	7:00, October 2, 2019
4.5	Summit Arrival	9:00, October 9, 2019
4.6	Return to Base Camp	Did not return to BC; descent to the col (end of the technical part of the route) at 14:30 on October 9; descent to Thamo — 17:00 on October 10
	5. Meteorological Conditions
5.1	Temperature, °C	Daytime +5…+10°C, nighttime −5…−10°C
5.2	Wind Speed, m/s	Virtually no wind, 0–2 m/s
5.3	Precipitation	October 2: rain from 13:00 to 4:00 — 10 mm; October 7: snow from 19:00 to 4:00 — 10 cm.
5.4	Visibility, m	Each day: fog from 10:00–14:00 to 17:00, visibility up to 50 m.
	6. Report Responsibility
6.1	Full Name, e-mail	Vasiliev A.S., andre.vasiliev@gmail.com +79054559237

II. Climbing Report

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

1.1. General Photo of the Peak

8:50, September 21, 2019. Approach to the route from Lunghden village, shooting height 4900 m.

10:20, September 20, 2019. Shot from the crossing between Thame and Lunghden, shooting height 4000 m.

1.2. Photo of the Route Profile

Taking high-quality photos of the wall profile was not possible due to poor weather conditions in the area during the approach, with virtually no visibility, and the technical difficulty of reaching a vantage point.

Photos found online are provided below.

Photo from http://www.jamesak.sk/content/column/article_dependency.asp?id_dependency=3346↗

Photo from https://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/136848/↗

1.3. Hand-Drawn Profile of the Route

1.4. Panoramic Photo of the Area

Names of neighboring peaks are unknown. Heights are taken from https://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20khumbu_gokyo.htm↗

1.5. Area Map

Purple line — approach to the western wall, red — descent via the southwest ridge. Scheme from https://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20khumbu_gokyo.htm↗

The peak Kyajo Ri (6186 m) is located in the Solukhumbu region, Nepal. It is situated north of Namche Bazaar in a long line of peaks continuing up to Cho-Oyu (8201 m) on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. To the west of this line of peaks lies the Thame Valley, and to the east, the Gokyo Valley, both popular trekking routes. Kyajo Ri is the highest point in the southern part of this ridge.

The peak was opened for climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002, and the first official ascent was made by a Franco-British team the same year via the southwest ridge, the most popular and straightforward route to date, often used for commercial climbs. Kyajo Ri is listed among Nepal's "Trekking Peaks," group A.

The second route to Kyajo Ri was climbed in 2005 by an American team via the southeast ridge. Several unsuccessful attempts were made on the eastern wall (Danish teams in 2003, 2011, and 2012; a German team in 2009). The first successful ascent of the eastern wall was achieved on May 9–13, 2013, by the duo V. Belousov–M. Koptev — the "Stealing Beauty" route, category 6A (6b/A2/M5).

In 2018, a Czech duo (Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák) completed an ascent from the west. Their line lay far to the left on the western wall and then followed the northwest ridge — the "Lapse of Reason" route, 1200 m long (M6, WI 4+, 3+UIAA, ED+).

The base camp to the west is conveniently located in the village of Lunghden (4400 m). The approach from Namche Bazaar (3440 m) along a good trail is 18 km, taking 5–8 hours. A bivouac under the start of the route can be set up near a small lake at 5000 m, reachable from Lunghden by ascending directly up grassy slopes and scree (with some trails) in 2–3 hours. From the lake to the wall is 40 minutes to 1 hour.

2. Route Characteristics

2.1. Technical Photo of the Route

2.3. Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols

Section #	Anchors	Friends	Rock Hooks	Belay Points, Nature in Symbols	Route Line in UIAA Symbols	Section Difficulty in Symbols	Section Length, m	Steepness, °
R28–R29	3/0					IV	50	50°
R27–R28	2/0				Traverse	III	50	20°
					Ridge	I	100	20°
R26–R27	3/1	1/0				I	40	20°
						IV	15	50°
R25–R26	35/35	1/1	5/5	15/15	Southwest Ridge	VI, A2	20	80°
						VI, A3e–12 m	50	90°
R24–R25	3/0		5/0			V	45	70°
R23–R24	13/10					I	5	20°
						VI, A1	20	80°
						VI, A3e–3 m	10	90°
R22–R23	5/0		2/0		Southwest Ridge	V	10	70°
					Rock Tooth	II	20	30°
						III	15	50°
R21–R22	25/23	8/8	8/8	7/7		V	10	60°
						VI, A3	50	90°
R20–R21	25/23	3/3	5/5	2/2		III	5	45°
						VI, A2	45	90°
R19–R20	13/10		1/0			VI, A2	20	80°
						V+	10	90°
						III	10	50°
R18–R19	8/5	1/0	1/0			VI, A2	35	70°
R17–R18	18/13		3/3	4/4		V+	10	60°
						VI, A3	20	70°
						VI, A1	10	90°
R16–R17	17/12			3/3		V	30	60°
						VI, A3	20	80°
R15–R16	9/5					V	50	60°
						VI, A2	10	70°
R14–R15	7/0	2/0	5/0			V	60	60°
R13–R14	15/13	1/1	6/6	3/3		IV	10	30°
						V	10	70°
						VI, A1	5	85°
						VI, A3	10	95°
						VI, A2	10	80°
R12–R13	7/0					V, M4	60	60°
R11–R12	4/0					IV, M3	60	50°
R10–R11	5/0	1/0	1/0			V, M4	50	60°
R9–R10	6/0	1/0	1/0			V, M4	50	60°
R8–R9	13/13					VI, A2	22	80°
						VI, A3	8	100°
R7–R8	12/12	3/3	1/1			VI, A2	40	80°
R6–R7	3/0					III	50	50°
R5–R6	6/0					V	50	60°
R4–R5	2/0					IV	20	60°
	12/12		1/1			VI, A2	22	90°
R3–R4	12/10	2/2	2/2			VI, A1	10	85°
						V	10	80°
						III	15	50°
						VI, A2	10	90°
R2–R3	23/23	5/5	4/4	2/2		VI, A2	25	90°
						VI, A3e–3 m	20	95°
R1–R2	17/17	4/4	5/5			VI, A2	35	80°
R0–R1						I	40	30°

3. Characteristics of Team Actions

3.1 Brief Description of Route Passage.

Section #	Description	Photo #
R0–R1	The route begins from a ledge at the bottom of the central part of Kyajo Ri's western wall. To the left of the ledge is a couloir with flowing water, and to the right is a talus cone under the icefall. Approach via scree covered in snow. Debris occasionally falls from the icefall. 60 m, 30°, I.	Photo 1
R1–R2	Start under an overhanging internal corner, moving towards this corner. Via a series of internal corners and cracks to the "ram's foreheads" under a large overhanging internal corner. 35 m, 80°, VI, A2.	Photo 2
R2–R3	To the left on the "ram's foreheads" into the overhanging internal corner, up its left wall, the terrain is fragile and overhangs. Transition through the left edge of the internal corner and up via a system of small internal corners (each subsequent one steeper), encountering an overhanging "mirror," with two transitions on "skyhooks" (6 mm) to the left to a crack under "camelots." Up the crack and right, returning to the continuation of the large destroyed internal corner. 45 m, 95°, VI, A2–A3.	Photo 2
R3–R4	Up under the overhang, bypassing it on the right. Reaching a small ledge, simple climbing to the left 15 m, and then up via an internal corner on artificial aids. Station before a vertical "mirror." 10 m, 90°, VI, A2; 15 m, 50°, III; 10 m, 80°, V; 10 m, 85°, VI, A1.
R4–R5	From the station, a pendulum swing right 3 m to a vertical slit. Up the slit through a small overhang 8 m. When the slit ends, another pendulum swing right to the next slit under anchors and "fiffies." Up the slit 10 m and then via an internal corner to its end. 22 m, 90°, VI, A2; 20 m, 60°, IV.	Photo 3
R5–R6	Under the wall, up and right via an internal corner filled with snow and ice, and then right along a ridge. Not difficult climbing, with short steep sections. 50 m, 60°, V.
R6–R7	Right and down via simple terrain, bypassing steep, snow-covered slabs, into a large, wide chimney-couloir. Traverse the couloir, with a station on its right wall. 50 m, 40°, IV.
R7–R8	Up the right internal corner to a flattening, then with a slight ascent to the left and up to a ledge under an overhanging rock belt. Rocks are ice-covered. A combination of climbing and artificial aids. 40 m, 80°, VI, A2.	Photo 4
R8–R9	The overhang is overcome at its narrowest part (water flows in the evening). Emerging into a large chimney-couloir. Up its left wall via steep, smoothed rocks. 8 m, 100°, VI, A3. 22 m, 80°, VI, A2.	Photo 4
R9–R10	Climbing rocks on the left side of the chimney, then mixed climbing up the chimney. Station on the right wall of the large chimney. 50 m, 60°, V, M4.
R10–R11	Continuing up the chimney. Station on the left wall. 50 m, 60°, V, M4.	Photo 5
R11–R12	Continuing up the chimney to its end and slightly left. 60 m, 50°, IV, M3.
R12–R13	Careful climbing left with a slight height gain across snow-covered slabs. Slabs are smooth, with little relief; snow is not always sufficient to support a person's weight. Difficult to organize belays and stations. Station on an indistinct ridge, with a large couloir below and to the left, where water flows and rocks occasionally fall. 60 m, 60°, V, M4.
R13–R14	Up the ridge under an overhang, steep slabs with minimal relief. Through the overhang's lowest part under an internal corner, relief is poor, cracks are deep, requiring ice axes. Up the steep internal corner, initially on artificial aids, then climbing, and right along a ledge to a wide, destroyed chimney (continuation of the R9–R11 chimney). 10 m, 80°, VI, A2; 10 m, 95°, VI, A3; 5 m, 85°, VI, A1; 10 m, 70°, V; 10 m, 30°, IV.	Photo 6
R14–R15	Along the chimney up (rock under snow and ice), with lying-down relief but few holds. Becomes steeper with more destroyed relief but a bouldery structure, many holds. Initially, everything is frozen with ice in the morning, aiding progress. Not very difficult climbing but unreliable. Then the terrain flattens, mixed climbing — slabs under snow. Difficult (sometimes impossible) to organize reliable belays. Station on an indistinct ridge. 60 m, 60°, V.
R15–R16	Along the ridge up. Mostly climbing, with short, smooth walls passed on artificial aids. Difficult to find relief for belays. Rocks are thinly covered in snow, requiring clearing to find cracks. Belays are unreliable. Station under a steep rock belt under an overhang. 10 m, 70°, VI, A2–A3; 50 m, 60°, V.
R16–R17	Via slabs covered in ice (water flows in the evening) with very scarce relief, slightly left of the overhang on artificial aids. Ice is too thin and brittle, requiring clearing. Then the rock flattens. Difficult transition to snow (slabs under snow). Initially, the snow layer is very thin, not supporting a person's weight. Then movement on snow, seeking places with a thick enough layer. Organizing belays is challenging. Station under the next steep rock belt. 20 m, 80°, VI, A3; 30 m, 60°, V+.	Photo 7
R17–R18	Overcoming the steep rock wall in the area with the richest relief. When the rock flattens, relief becomes poor, cracks are deep. Two holes for "skyhooks" are present, requiring ice axes. Difficult transition to snow. Organizing belays is challenging. 10 m, 90°, VI, A1; 20 m, 80°, VI, A3; 10 m, 70°, V+.	Photo 8
R18–R19	"Ram's foreheads" under snow, direction right and up. Difficult mixed climbing, dry tooling. Station on a flake. 35 m, 70°, VI, A1.
R19–R20	Traverse right and up an internal corner with destroyed relief (dry tooling). Up and right via a series of walls and ledges. Difficult mixed climbing with some artificial aid sections. 10 m, 50°, III; 10 m, 90°, V+; 20 m, 80°, VI, A2.
R20–R21	Right along an internal corner with a deep crack. On the right side to a ledge, traverse right and up an internal corner with a slight overhang, through it to the next ledge (friends, anchors, "fiffies"). 45 m, 90°, VI, A2; 5 m, 45°, III.	Photo 9
R21–R22	Along the ledge right under a large internal corner with a cornice. Undercut through large blocks right and up, then along the right wall of the corner left and up along the edge. All sorts of metal gear are used. The corner ends with a slight overhang and transitions into a narrow couloir. After the overhang, climbing (snow-covered blocks, living rock) 50 m, 90°, VI, A3; 10 m, 60°, V.	Photo 10
R22–R23	From the station right and up to a pass under a rock tooth and from the tooth, traverse right along inclined slabs. Then up the wall climbing. 15 m, 50°, III; 20 m, 30°, II; 10 m, 70°, V.
R23–R24	Along a wide crack under a "camlot" # 4 (we didn't have one that size, so there are 4 holes for "skyhooks"). To a ledge and then a combination of artificial aid and climbing up the crack to a wide ledge with living rocks. Here, the southwest exposure means less snow and ice on the rocks. Station on a ledge. 10 m, 90°, VI, A2; 20 m, 80°, VI, A1; 5 m, 20°, I.	Photo 11
R24–R25	Straight up from the ledge via an almost vertical wall with good relief, then cracks lead right. Encountering "booming" slabs and individual blocks. Climbing is sometimes on friction. Reaching a large ledge with living rocks under a steep wall of the pre-summit bastion. From the ledge, the relief leads left to a pass. Many living blocks and slabs of various sizes. Very careful, though not difficult, climbing. Avoiding loading blocks. An unpleasant section. Station on the pass. 45 m, 70°, V.
R25–R26	From the pass up and right via deep cracks (anchors, "fiffies," ice axes, holes for "skyhooks"). Then via a series of cracks under "fiffies" and anchors (the crack becomes deep at the end) to a slab forming a wide crack with the wall. Inside the crack are thin living slabs, making it impossible to organize belays. For belays, two points were blocked. Along the left wall via a "mirror" on "skyhook" holes 10 m to a ledge. Then left to a pass (undercuts, artificial aid). Along the ridge right of it to a "roof." Gentle, smooth slabs alternate with steep walls. A very long and difficult rope. Belays are sometimes unreliable. Station on the "roof" on a ledge. 50 m, 90°, VI, A3; 20 m, 80°, VI, A2.	Photo 12
R26–R27	Up via simple terrain (a short wall) climbing and then on foot on snow. A good spot for a bivouac under a "gendarme." 15 m, 50°, IV; 40 m, 20°, I.
R27–R28	Around the "gendarme" right along a ledge, emerging onto a pass. The ledge becomes quite narrow towards the end, with ice encountered. 100 m, 20°, I; 50 m, 20°, III.	Photo 13
R28–R29	From the pass up a snowy slope slightly left of the ridge — emerging onto the summit. Steeper as you ascend. 100 m, 40°, III; 50 m, 50°, IV.	Photo 14