Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to Peak Borodino from Fortambek Glacier

Date	Designation	Average Steepness in Degrees	Length	Relief Character of the Section	Category of Difficulty	Section Condition	Weather	Rock Pits	Ice Pits	Bolt Pits	Note
July 26, 1979	R0–R1	40°	200 m	Snow-ice slope and I bergschrund	4	Snow-covered ice	good	1			Processing
	R1–R2	45°	350 m	Ice slope	4	Pure ice	«		4		route
	R2–R3	90°	8 m	II bergschrund	6	Steep ice	«	1	P
	R3–R4	50°	200 m	Ice slope and III bergschrund	5	Pure ice	«		4
	R4–R5	30°	130 m	Snow slope	5	Deep snow	«
Departure at 9:00. Stop at 17:30. Working hours 8 h 30 min. Overnight stay on snow in camp I.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — high-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascent — North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Kirova, 6371 m, along the Eastern ridge from Walter Glacier.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference 6371–4200 = 2171 m, average steepness — 50°, length of sections: R2 — none, R3 — 800 m, R4 — 1000 m, R5 — 700 m, R6 — none.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay: rock — 44

2nd Ascent

Protocol of debriefing №3 dated July 28, 1980 Present: head of the gathering, senior coach, participants of the gathering. Debriefing of the ascent to p. Kirova (around 6500 m) from the north from the Valter Glacier, with ascent to the plateau via Borodkin's route. Group: leader - Shpynev G., participants Vorobiev A.N., Golovin A.V., Terekhov A.N. Leader Shpynev: On July 24, 1981 at 15:00 we left the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays, made a stop near the lake and at 18:00 approached the route. We spent the night on the Valter Glacier. July 25: At 6:00 we started on the route and by 10:30 we ascended to the campsite at 5200 m, where we stopped for 1.5 hours. Had lunch. At 12:00 we continued moving and by 20:00 stopped for the night 100 m from the "camel". On this section, we met a group from Voronezh, who were descending after completing the ascent (first ascent to p. Kirova from the north) via the same route. July 26: At 7:00 we started on the route. After reaching the ridge leading to p. Kirova, we put on crampons. We reached the summit at 12:00 and, without delaying, began our descent via the ascent route. At 15:30 we approached the overnight stay site, dismantled the tent, and continued our descent. At 19:00 we reached the Valter Glacier and the base camp of the Voronezh group. At 20:30 we arrived at the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays. The weather during the ascent was clear, with strong cold winds.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical;
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route — Traverse of p. Kirova (6372 m) — p. Khokhlova (6701 m) — p. Kommunizma (7495 m) with ascent from Walter Glacier via the East Ridge;
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3400 m, length of sections of 1st difficulty category – 1500 m, 2nd difficulty category – 1900 m, 3rd difficulty category – 6680 m, 4th difficulty category – 2200 m, 5th difficulty category – 120 m, average steepness — 30°;
6. Pitons hammered: for creating ITO — none; for belaying — of which rock — 24, ice — 28, bolt — none;
7. Number of travel hours — 38;
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 3 nights, lying down;
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

USSR Climbing Federation

USSR Climbing Championship, 1970

Kirova Peak via the west face (6371 m) Protocol No. 318 dated October 3, 1970. Category 5B, first ascent. DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF "AVANGARD" SPORTS ORGANIZATION Donetsk, 1970

Peak Kirova (6372 m)

Group Composition:

Surname, First Name, Patronymic	Sport Rank	Year of Birth	Party Membership	Nationality	Sport Experience and Instructor Rank
KONKOV Mikhail Petrovich	МСМК	1937	чл. КПСС	русск.	since 1955 ст. инструктор
GUSEV Viktor Sergeevich	КМС	1940	б/п	русск.	since 1964 мл. инструктор
CHERNOBELSKY Iosif Vladimirovich	КМС	1944	б/п	еврей	since 1961 мл. инструктор
CHERNOBELSKAYA Valentina Alexandrovna	КМС	1943	б/п	русск.	since 1963 мл. инструктор
Nosov Anatoly Pavlovich	КМС	1936	б/п	русск.	since 1956 звания нет
The route to Peak Kirova (6372 m) via the central counterfort of the Western wall, ascended by the group of the Bashkir expedition, consists of characteristic sections that can be classified as follows:

TIMING OF THE ROUTE: START: March 24, 1992 END: August 13, 1992 TEAM: PHIL THORNHILL, GREAT BRITAIN — SOLO. A. Start of the route. 2 hours B. Dawn. I quickly traverse the slope on easy terrain to bypass the icefall line. This traverse takes just under 1 hour. C. First technical difficulty:

• Loose, shallow snow on rocks.
• I have to pull my backpack behind me. D. Camp #1.

The Summit!

Strong wind. Fog is approaching, visibility is poor, so it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Bivouacs:

• №3
• №4 The first overnight stay here is very bad. I shelter from the wind by burrowing into the snow. In the morning, the weather did not improve. Visibility is almost zero. I dig a good snow cave and arrange a "day of rest". The next day, the weather is the same. But I must descend. Near the bivouac, I fall into a small crevasse. Progress along the ridge requires great effort due to:
• strong wind,
• poor visibility.

Комитет по физической культуре и спорту при Новосибирском облисполкоме

4.8.12

Отчёт

о восхождении сборной команды Новосибирской области на пик Коммунизма через пик Кирова с подъёмом на пик Кирова по северному гребню, совершённого в зачёт чемпионата СССР 1973 года Класс высотных восхождений Новосибирск –1973–

1. Краткое географическое описание и спортивная характеристика объекта восхождения

Пик Коммунизма (7495 m) — высочайшая вершина Советского Союза, расположен на северо-западном Памире, на пересечении хребтов Академии Наук и Петра Первого. Он открыт топографом И. Г. Дорофеевым в 1928 г. [^1]. Первовосхождение на пик Коммунизма совершено в 1933 году выдающимся советским альпинистом Евгением Абалаковым. На склонах пика Коммунизма берут начало многочисленные ледники, относящиеся к трём автономным бассейнам, которые разделены хребтами Академии Наук и Петра Первого — это бассейны ледников Бивачный, Фортамбек и Беляева. Соответственно, можно выделить три района, из которых совершаются восхождения на пик Коммунизма:

Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Fortambek glacier.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via Peak Kirov (6371 m) with ascent to Peak Kirov via the north ridge.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference — 2495 m. Average steepness — about 15°. Length of difficult sections — 1020 m.
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 64
   ice — 47