Central Asia

Mountain range3,552,051.21 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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The ascent of Shater peak (5568 m) via the North-West wall, category 6B, made in 1985 by a team led by Vladimir Balberdin.

II­­ A C II­­ O P T

  1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical 2. Climbing region: Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley, Ishkashim Range
  2. Peak Shatyor, 5568 m, northwest wall (route
  3. I. Grigorenko — Prigody)
  4. Difficulty category: 6B cat., second ascent
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1368 m route length — 1655 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 715 m, including 6 cat. — 300 m, steepness of the main part of the route — 68° (4200–5210)
  6. Pitons driven: Rock Shoulder Pitons Nuts Ice 139–37 5–4 35
  7. Team's walking hours: 47 and 5 days
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Route Description: СЗ стене

SummitMateSSummitMate
17 days ago

A route in the Pamir Mountains, elevation 5568 m, grade 6A, with a detailed description of the ascent to the summit.

Pn. ua­me­r 5568 ­м 146.60

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Ascent to Chotagai peak (6133 m) in the Muzkol ridge in Pamir via the NW buttress of the wall, grade 5B, first ascent in 1986.

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Ascent Passport

  1. Category of first ascents.
  2. Region: Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Ridge.
  3. Peak CHOTAGAY (6133 m) via the S-3 counterfort of the wall, rock route.
  4. Proposed category of complexity — 5B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1300 m, length — 1680 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route — 62° (5050–6000 m). Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 710 m, ~45–50°.
  6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice |
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### Description of the ascent route to Peak Evgeny Abalakov (6446 m) via the North Face Details the challenging ascent route to Peak Evgeny Abalakov, highlighting the complexity and intricacies of navigating the North Face.

  1. Class of ascent
  • Altitude-technical;
  1. Region of ascent
  • North-West Pamir, Petra Pervogo Ridge;
  1. Peak, its height, route
  • peak Evgenia Abalakova, 6446 m via the north face;
  1. Estimated difficulty category
  • Sixth;
  1. Route characteristics:
  • Height difference — 2300 m;
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Report on the second ascent of the route with category 5B difficulty level on the North face of Pik E. Abalakov in the Pamir Mountains in 1978.

  1. Climbing category – high-altitude and technical
  2. Climbing region, ridge – Pamir, Fortambek glacier, Peter I Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, route – Peak E. Abalakova, 6446 m, via the N wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category – 5B (second ascent)
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 2350 m length of difficult sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty 1410 m average steepness 66°
  6. Pitons hammered: for belaying – 163, for creating artificial anchors – 0 steel – 148 (15 of them at bivouacs), ice – 15, bolt – 0
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First ascent via the north face of the Peak E. Abalakova (Pamir, Fortambek Glacier) in 1977.

  1. CLIMBING CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
  2. CLIMBING REGION — PAMIR, FORTAMBEK GLACIER
  3. CLIMBING ROUTE WITH SUMMIT HEIGHT — FIRST ASCENT, NORTH WALL OF PEAK E. ABALAKOV, 6446 m
  4. CLIMBING CHARACTERISTICS:
    • HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 2350 m
    • AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 66°
    • LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS — 1250 m
  5. PITS SET:
    • ROCK PITS — 173
    • ICE PITS — 51
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Description of the ascent made by N.P. Kovtun's group to the summit of Peak Abalakov in 1979, route difficulty category, details of the climb, and key obstacles.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
  2. Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
  4. Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
  6. Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |
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Climbing passport for Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face, grade 6B, Pamir, Peter the First ridge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
  4. Expected difficulty category: 6B
  5. Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |
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Ascent of an unnamed peak (5730 m) in the Peter I Range of Pamir via the North-East wall, category of difficulty 6B.

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of 30.09.80, 5B cat., semi-circular traverse.

Ascent Passport

  1. ASCENT CLASS: technically challenging
  2. ASCENT AREA, RIDGE: Pamir, Peter I Ridge
  3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Unnamed, 5730 m, North-East wall, counterfort
  4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6B cat. diff.
  5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference: 2130 m.
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Ascent of Agassiz Peak via the northeast wall buttress, category 5B, climbed by the UkrSoviet Sпартак DTS team in 1986.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir, Peter I ridge
  3. Summit: peak Agasis, 5730 m, counterfort of the north-eastern wall
  4. Complexity category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference: 2200 m
    • length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty: 1700 m
    • average steepness: 75°
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