Ascent Card for Mt. Gorets Vostochny, 2457 m, via the East Ridge, cat. 2B

1. East Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Terasa dvukh karov (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
2. Gorets Vostochny peak, 2457 m, via the East Ridge.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 600 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and chocks, 17 pieces.
7. Team's travel time — 6 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Afanasyev A.E. MS Vasiliev M.Yu. candidate Emelyanov S.M. candidate Zhukov O.A. candidate Pospelov A.S. candidate Rozhin A.Yu. candidate Trubin S.V. candidate.

10. Coach: Afanasyev A.E. MS

11. Summit ascent and descent: April 3, 2007.

Description of the ascent route to Mt. Gorets Vostochny 2457 m, via the East Ridge, cat. 2B

From the base camp at Serebryanoe lake or at the Terasa dvukh karov, it takes 1–1.5 hours to approach the route. The route starts from the South cirque of Mt. Gorets, at the foot of the southern slope.

Sect. 0–1: 200 m in height, 40°, cat. 1. Snow slope. At the top, traverse right to the south ridge.

Sect. 1–2: 400 m, 35°, cat. 1. Along the south ridge to the Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge.

Sect. 2–3: 25 m, 5°, cat. 1. Traverse left (west) along the ridge to the 1st gendarme.

Sect. 3–4: 10 m, cat. 3. Gentle descent along the sharp ridge.

Sect. 4–5: 30 m, cat. 2. Left of the ridge, up and down rocky terrain, 60°.

Sect. 5–6: 30 m, cat. 3. Cross the ridge to the right side and continue with some descent, partly sticking to the sharp ridge.

Sect. 6–7: 40 m, cat. 3. Traverse a sharp rocky "finger" on the right, along the wall, 60°. Reach a saddle.

Sect. 7–8: 40 m, 65°, cat. 4. Second gendarme. Direct ascent.

Sect. 8–9: 20 m, 20°, cat. 2. To the top of the gendarme.

Sect. 9–10: 25 m, 75°, cat. 3. Rappelling down to a saddle before the summit tower.

Sect. 10–11: 30 m, 60°, cat. 3. Left of the edge of the pre-summit ridge.

Sect. 11–12: 40 m, 40°, cat. 2. Along the ridge, easy rocks.

Sect. 12–13: 20 m, 10°, cat. 1. Snow ridge. Reach the summit of Gorets Vostochny 2457 m.

Descent: along the west ridge to a saddle, 1 rappel. Then, left, into a snowy couloir with southern exposure: 1 rappel, 1 sport climb, after clearing it with rocks. Avalanche risk is possible!

3. UIAA. Technical photo Gorets Vost. 2B.

4. Panorama of Vetryany region, from the Tunskinskaya valley to the right. Map of Vetryany region.

5. General photo of Gorets.

6. On section 2. Gorets Vostochny from Mt. Gorets Zapadny.

7. Section 5–6.

11. Technical photos of ascents to the gendarme and the summit tower.

12. Path to the saddle, right of the ridge. Start of section 6–7.

13. Section 7–8. Second gendarme.

14. Rappelling down from the gendarme, view from below.

15. Rappelling down from the gendarme, view from above.

16. On section 11–12.