Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Optimist via the northern ridge route, category 2B, by the Gory Baikala team from October 15, 2018, to October 15, 2018.

I. Climbing Report

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OPTIMIST VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 4A, BY THE GORY BAIKALA TEAM, OCTOBER 19, 2018 Irkutsk 2018

I. Ascent Report

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Optimist 2660 m via the route on the North wall, approximately 5A category of difficulty, for the period from October 17, 2018 to October 17, 2018. Perm—Tyumen 2018

I. Climbing Passport

Ascent Certificate for v. Partizan, 2428 m, via the Western ridge, cat. 2A

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, terrace of two cirques (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
2. Partizan peak (2428), via the Western ridge.
3. Proposed cat. 2A, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference 50 m, length 240 m, average slope 20°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 15 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.

Ascent certificate for v. Partizan 2428 m via the Eastern ridge, cat. diff. 3A.

1. East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, cirque of Ser'ga Sirotskaya lake (Vetryany area), section 6.1.2.
2. Partizan peak (2428 m) via the Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category difficulty 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Elevation gain 500 m, length 900 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 20 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 6.5 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Team: Geydarov K.G. — 2nd sports category, Nomokonov D.V. — 3rd sports category, Senatorov A.V. — 3rd sports category.

4344

IRKUTSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Description

Ascent to peak "Perya" via the N ridge (Tunkinskie Goltsy) Eastern Sayan Mountains 2996 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical information, sports characteristics, and history of exploration of the "Moygoto" valley

The Moygoto valley is located in the central part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest mountain range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, with the highest point at 3266 m, located in the upper reaches of the Gang-Khairym valley. The range has alpine relief forms and many peaks of interest to mountaineers. The valleys are deep and covered with dense taiga. The tree line lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover largely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Perya" is situated in a lateral spur, separated from the main ridge by a deep saddle. The peak's height is 2996 m. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, located 30 km away; Irkutsk is 250 km away. From the valley to the base camp, it is an 8 km ascent through a very difficult-to-access valley (the use of pack transport is not feasible), taking 5-6 hours.

Map of the area. After 1.5 hours, we approach the gap. In this location, the ridge drops sharply to the north; to the right, there is a steep, deep snowy slope, making a detour impossible (photo 7A). From the ridge, the height of the rocks before the gap is 4 m (photos 4, 5), and the depth of the gap is up to 60 m. The descent into the gap begins with a rope descent, sports style, from the upper part of the 8 m gendarme (organization of the descent in photo 6). Traverse along a snowy ledge under overhanging rocks for 5 m. Then, another 7-meter sports descent follows down a sheer wall with a negative two-meter section onto an inclined snowy platform (photo 6). Insurance is combined through ledges and one rock hook. The last participant descends both times on a double rope. The top is secured to available convenient and reliable ledges. Next is simultaneous movement across chaotically piled large boulders, and after 10 m, another sports descent follows down destroyed rocks with a steepness of 45°. Insurance is alternating, through ledges. Caution, loose rocks! The gap is the lowest section of the ridge – 2060 m. From the summit Обзорная to the gap, it takes 2.5 hours. From the gap, a steep, sharp ridge continues with cliffs on both sides (photo 7A). The rocks are of medium difficulty, местами разрушены. Insurance along the 200 m section of the ridge is alternating, 60 m of rope protection, one rock hook. The overall steepness of the 200-meter ridge section is up to 50°. Further, the ridge becomes gentler (photo 7A). A rocky ascent before the last ridge depression (photo 8) is bypassed on the right, below the ridge along snowy wide inclined ledges and destroyed easy rocks. Movement is simultaneous.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF

V. Sverdlovsk via the RIGHT COUNTERFORT OF THE NORTH-EAST FACE – 4A CATEGORY DIFFICULTY Team leader Gnoevsky I.P. Mikhailov A.A. Yurinsky Yu.I.

Й­ц­у­к­е­н­г­ш­щ­з­х­ъ­ф­ы­в­а­п­р­о­л­д­ж­э­я­ч

Смить­бю­й­ц­у­к­е­н­г­ш­щ­з­х­ъ­ф­ы­в­а­п

Ы­в­а­п­р­о­л­д­ж­э­я­ч­с­м­и­т­ь­бю­й­ц­у­к­е­н

Covering letter. Hello, respected members of the classification commission! The leader of this ascent, B.A. Khandazhapov, is addressing you. As part of the FASIO training camp held in the Sayan Mountains from November 1 to 9, 2014, we completed this ascent. After a meeting of the coaching council consisting of:

• S.A. Kirillov — senior coach,
• S.V. Kosoturov — training officer,
• B.A. Khandazhapov — instructor, 3rd category, it was decided to petition the FAR classification commission to raise the category of difficulty of this route to 3A. Under my leadership, the participants compiled a report. I ask you to familiarize yourselves with it and make a decision. Sincerely, B.A. Khandazhapov.

Ascent Passport

Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge Peak — Sever 2826 m. GPS coordinates — 51°54′35.76″N 102°0′3.11″E Route:

• Via the Southeast ridge, proposed category 2B. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Route description:
• Height difference 320 m.
• Route length approximately 400 m.
• Average steepness of the route 52°.