Ascent certificate for v. Partizan 2428 m via the Eastern ridge, cat. diff. 3A.

  1. East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, cirque of Ser'ga Sirotskaya lake (Vetryany area), section 6.1.2.
  2. Partizan peak (2428 m) via the Eastern ridge.
  3. Proposed category difficulty 3A, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rocky.
  5. Elevation gain 500 m, length 900 m, average slope 30°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 20 pcs.
  7. Team's travel time — 6.5 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Team: Geydarov K.G. — 2nd sports category, Nomokonov D.V. — 3rd sports category, Senatorov A.V. — 3rd sports category.
  10. Coach Afanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports.
  11. Ascent to the summit and return on October 23, 2013. Second passage made on April 26, 2017. The report includes photos from different years.

Description of the ascent route to v. Partizan 2428 m via the Eastern ridge, cat. diff. 3A.

From the base camp on Vesenneye Lake, which is located below Serebryanoe Lake at the edge of the drop into the Tunka valley, to Ser'ga Sirotskaya Lake — 2 hours 30 minutes walking. The lake is passed on the left through talus in the direction of the couloir descending from the saddle between the 5th gendarme from Mt. Mamlyuk and the massif of Mt. Partizan. The route begins from the foot of the slope.

  • Sect. R0–R1. 400 m, 40°, 1-. Up the snowy couloir to the saddle, closest to the rocks of Mt. Partizan, in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge crest.
  • Sect. R1–R2. 10 m, 60°, 3+. Left of the saddle onto a gendarme head-on. 3 protection points.
  • Sect. R2–R3. 50 m, 20°, 2-. Simple rocks.
  • Sect. R3–R4. 30 m, 10°, 2+. Sharp ridge. Exit onto the first gendarme.
  • Sect. R4–R5. 20 m, 50°, 3-. Sporty descent to a loop on a ledge from the top of the gendarme.
  • Sect. R5–R6. 15 m, 20°, 2+. Down the ridge of the first gendarme to the saddle. Protection via ledges.
  • Sect. R6–R7. 25 m, 60°, 3+. Straight up the ridge of the second gendarme. 2 protection points.
  • Sect. R7–R8. 60 m, 15°, 2-. Ridge.
  • Sect. R8–R9. 25 m, 80°, 4+. Rocky wall with a loose snowy cushion at the foot. 4 protection points.
  • Sect. R9–R10. 25 m, 10°, 3-. Further along the ridge to the top of the second gendarme. 2 protection points.
  • Sect. R10–R11. 10 m, descent 25°, 2-. From the top of the second gendarme, first descent.
  • Sect. R11–R12. 50 m, slope 45°, 3-. Further right of the ridge to the exit onto a lateral ridge ledge. 4 protection points.
  • Sect. R12–R13. 10 m, 60°, 3+. Sharp ridge. 2 protection points. Exit onto the main ridge.
  • Sect. R13–R14. 80 m, 20°, 2+. Sharp ridge. Protection via ledges. Exit onto the 3rd gendarme.
  • Sect. R14–R15. 80 m, 5–0°, 2-. Ridge not difficult. At the end of the section, a slight descent into a dip on the ridge.
  • Sect. R15–R16. 70 m, 2-. Bypassing the ridge on the right along a 45° slope.
  • Sect. R16–R17. 20 m, 30°, 2+. Along the ridge to Mt. Partizan 2428 m. Protection via ledges.

Descent to the west along the ridge of route 2A cat. diff. — 1 rappel. And through the summit of Ulyabor (a wooden triangulation point stands there) down the Southern slope.

UIAA table for v. Partizan 2428 m, cat. diff. 3A.

v. PartizanLength, mSlope, °DifficultyNumber of pitons hammeredwired
20302+
70452-
8002-
80202+2
10603+11
50453-22
10252-
25103-11
25804+22
60152-
25603+2
15202+
20503-
30102+1
50202-
10603+21
400401-
  1. Panorama of Vetryany from the Tunka valley to the right. img-0.jpeg img-1.jpeg

  2. Route map for v. Partizan 3A. img-2.jpeg

  3. Sect. R0–R1. img-3.jpeg

  4. To the 1st gendarme. Sect. R2–R3. img-4.jpeg

  5. Sporty descent from the 1st gendarme. img-5.jpeg

  6. Exit onto the 2nd gendarme. img-6.jpeg

  7. Ridge of the 3rd gendarme. img-7.jpeg

  8. Ridge from the 3rd gendarme to the summit. Participants of route 2A visible. img-8.jpeg

  9. View from v. Partizan onto the 3A ridge. img-9.jpeg

  10. At the summit of Partizan. img-10.jpeg

  11. View from v. Partizan onto the 2A ridge. img-11.jpeg

  12. Cleft on the descent via 2A. img-12.jpeg

  13. Rappel on route 2A.

Sources

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