Report

on the first ascent to the summit Optimist 2660 m via the route on the North wall, approximately 5A category of difficulty, for the period from October 17, 2018 to October 17, 2018.

Perm—Tyumen 2018

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Oleneva Nadezhda Aleksandrovna, CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Repina Ekaterina Viktorovna, 1st sports rank Tkachenko Pavel Valentinovich, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of coach	Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (MS)
1.4	Organization	Irkutsk Regional Public Organization Active Recreation and Climbing Club "Gory Baikala", project "Nevozmozhno — eto ne navsegda"
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
2.1	Region	Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge
2.2	Valley	Chertolen-Gorkhon
2.3	Section number according to the classification table of 2013	6.1.2
2.4	Name and height of the summit	Optimist, 2660 m
2.5	Geographical coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinates	51°50′25.78″ N 101°36′35.72″ E
	3. Characteristics of the Route
3.1	Name of the route	Via the North wall
3.2	Proposed category of difficulty	5A
3.3	Degree of route exploration	First ascent
3.4	Nature of the route terrain	Rock
3.5	Elevation gain of the route (data from altimeter or GPS)	340 m
3.6	Length of the route (in meters)	408 m
3.7	Technical elements of the route (total length of sections of various difficulty categories with indication of the terrain nature (ice-snow, rock))	Rock 1st cat. diff. — 60 m. Rock 2nd cat. diff. — 90 m. Rock 3rd cat. diff. — 50 m. Rock 4–5 cat. diff. — 45 m. Rock 5 cat. diff. — 58 m. Rock 6 cat. diff. — 65 m. Rock 6, A1 — 25 m. Rock 6, A2 — 15 m.
3.8	Descent from the summit	Along the ridge 150 m in the northern direction, rappel descent 20 m to a saddle, descent via a scree gully in the eastern direction into the Chertolen-Gorkhon valley
3.9	Additional characteristics	Lack of water
	route
:--:	:--:	:--:
	4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
4.1	Time of movement (team's climbing hours)	9.5 hours
4.2	Overnight stays	No
4.3	Time at control points	Departure from overnight stay under the summit Optimist — 6:00, Start on R0 — 7:30, Summit — 17:00, Descent into the valley — 18:40, Return to BL — 20:00
	5. Characteristics of Weather Conditions
5	Clear, no precipitation, temperature approximately +10 °C.
	6. Person responsible for the report
6.1	Full name, e-mail	Oleneva Nadezhda Aleksandrovna nady317@mail.ru

II. Climbing Report

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

1.1. General photo of the summit Optimist from NE from the Chertolen-Gorkhon river valley.

General photo of the north wall of the summit Optimist (photo taken from the Chertolen-Gorkhon river valley)

1.2. Photo of the route profile (photo taken from the ridge of Optimist summit)

1.3. Photopanorama of the upper Chertolen-Gorkhon valley from the summit Shkolnaya

1.3. Map of the Area

The summit Optimist is located in the upper reaches of the Chertolen-Gorkhon valley, Tunkin ridge of the Eastern Sayan, west of the Khubuta river valley, along which the trail leads to the Shumak mineral springs, a popular tourist route in our region.

Nearest settlements:

Nilova Pustyn settlement
Khoito-Gol village, Tunkinsky district, Buryatia Republic (district center Kyren settlement)

Route:

travel along the old road to the "Sukhoy Ruchey" tourist base
further transportation by a high-passability vehicle up the road, or on foot to the Chertolen-Gorkhon river
from there, a good trail leads into the valley

Features of the valley:

it is a dead-end valley
regularly visited by local herb and wild food gatherers
has a very simple approach
horseback transportation to the base camp is possible along the trail

In terms of mountaineering, the potential of the valley allows for mountaineering events with ascents from 1B to 5A category of difficulty.

The chosen route line on the North wall is beautiful and logical. The first three ropes follow a vertical inner corner, rich in relief and sometimes turning into a narrow chimney. After the inner corner, the wall becomes more gradual, but the path is very ambiguous: smooth slabs — mirrors, cut by cracks and ledges, which sometimes end in nothing. Here, two traverse sections go to the right, each almost a full rope length, the second one slightly descending.

Further:

along good relief — 3 ropes to the ridge.

Approach to the route:

from the base camp — 2.5 hours.

Overnight stay is possible under the summit Optimist (no water), from which:

ascent via scree to the route — 1 hour.

According to the team's assessment, the route corresponds to similar routes in the Eastern Sayan of 5A category of difficulty.

2. Characteristics of the Route

2.1. Technical photograph of the route.

2.2. Section numbers on the technical photograph correspond to the section numbers on the route diagram in UIAA symbols.

2.3. Diagram of the route in UIAA symbols. Summit Optimist via the north wall. Presumably 5A category of difficulty.

Section	Pitons	Chocks	Bolts	Aids	Length, m	Steepness, deg.	Difficulty
R9–R10					60	20	1
R8–R9	0	2			55	30	2
R7–R8	2	8			45	50	3
R6–R7	2	9			5	60	3
					45	70	4–5
R5–R6		2			35	60	2 (descending)
R4–R5		6			45	70	5
R3–R4		2			8	85	5
R2–R3	3	3	5		30	85	6 A2
R1–R2	1	3	8	chock	5	85	5
					25	85	6+ A1
R0–R1	2	11			50	85	5–6

3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions

3.1. Approach to the summit Optimist from the base camp takes 1–1.5 hours. Along the trail upstream along the river, the trail goes sometimes along the left, sometimes along the right bank.

Under the summit Optimist, we stopped for an overnight stay (no water, there was snow).

From the overnight stay location:

Ascend via scree to the north wall in the direction of a clearly visible vertical inner corner, going through the entire lower part of the wall.
The approach from the overnight stay location to the start of the route took 1 hour.

Section	Description	Photo Number
R0–R1	Along the inner corner with good relief or slightly to the right of it via rock V–VI cat. diff. There are wedged and loose blocks, the section requires careful climbing. Belay mainly on friends. Station on a small ledge on 2 friends and 2 anchors.	Photo 1
R1–R2	Climb upwards along the corner in the direction of a chock, via the chock using aids. Climb onto the chock and further along a narrow chimney-crack to a small ledge, on which is a station. Aids on friends of medium size. Station—friend + 2 anchors.	Photos 2, 3
R2–R3	Along the corner, transitioning into a chimney with wedged blocks. Aids with transitions to climbing. Belay on friends and anchors. Station on a small ledge, not reaching the cornice (anchor and 2 friends).	Photos 4, 5
R3–R4	Traverse along a ledge to the right, bypassing a vertical wall, and behind it along an inner corner to a large shelf. Station on the shelf on a chock. Sections R2–R3 and R3–R4 can be climbed as one.	Photo 6
R4–R5	From the shelf to the right upwards along a small ledge, transitioning into a horizontal inclined crack, 15 m. Further, the ledge widens — along it to the right. Station on a chock.	Photo 7
R5–R6	Traverse to the right with descent along ledges in the direction of an inner corner with good relief. Station at the base of the corner on 3 friends.	Photo 8
R6–R7	Upwards along the inner corner. Climb past a large chock to the right. Further along the walls to a small grassy inclined terrace, station above it on a chock.	Photo 9
R7–R8	Upwards through a series of walls and ledges along simple relief to a large shelf under a gendarme. Station on the shelf on a chock.	Photo 10
R8–R9	Along the shelf to the right, bypassing the gendarme, exit onto the ridge.
R9–R10	Along the ridge on foot to the summit.

3.2. Photo of the team on the summit at the control tur.

3.3. Descent from the summit in the northern direction along the ridge, bypassing difficult sections to the left (from the west). Along the ridge 150 m. Rappel descent 20 m to a saddle. From the saddle, descent via a scree gully in the eastern direction into the Chertolen-Gorkhon river valley. Return to BLi.

3.4. Photo report by sections