Ascent Certificate for v. Partizan, 2428 m, via the Western ridge, cat. 2A

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, terrace of two cirques (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
2. Partizan peak (2428), via the Western ridge.
3. Proposed cat. 2A, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference 50 m, length 240 m, average slope 20°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 15 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group: Rozhin A.Yu. leader

Afanasyev A.E. MS, Vasilyev M.Yu. leader, Volodov A.N. leader, Pospelov A.S. leader, Trubin S.V. leader.

10. Coach Afanasyev A.E. MS
11. As­cent to the sum­mit and re­turn on August 4, 2007. Sec­ond as­cent made on April 26, 2017. The re­port in­cludes pho­tographs from dif­ferent years.

De­scrip­tion of the route to v. Par­ti­zan 2428 m via the West­ern ridge, cat. 2A

From the base camp on Se­reb­rya­noe Lake, east along the ter­race of Two Cirques to the south­ern ridge of Ulyabor mountain. Along the gen­tle grassy wide ridge, move left up­wards to Ulyabor mountain 2420 m, where an old wooden tri­an­gu­la­tion point is lo­cated. This peak is marked on geo­graph­ic maps but is not a dom­i­nant height or a sep­a­rate peak. It is lo­cated on the wa­ter­shed of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge.

Partizan peak:

• is lo­cated to the right of Ulyabor mountain, i.e., east along the ridge;
• is the high­est point of the Ulyabor — Partizan mas­sif;
• has a cirque with Ser'ga Sirotskaya Lake to the south;
• has a steep slope on the north­ern side, which forms the right bor­der of the Arkhut gully.

The route starts from the tri­an­gu­la­tion sign. Since the as­cent to v. Ulyabor can­not be in­cluded in the route, the route it­self is short, but sat­ur­ated and quite sat­is­fac­tory for train­ing groups, al­though more dif­fi­cult than a stan­dard cat. 2B.

Sec. 0–1 40 m, I+ cat. To the east, left and down, along a 40° slope, by­pass­ing the 1st sen­tinel. Sec. 1–2 50 m, II– cat. Left of the ridge, along a 55° slope, be­low a white rocky out­crop. 3 pitons. Sec. 2–3 30 m, III– cat. Fur­ther left, by­pass­ing a rocky bas­tion, up and down along snow-covered in­clined shelves on large rocks near a 90° wall. Piton belay. Sec. 3–4 8 m, 90°, V– cat. Wall with cracks. At the top, a 1.5 m traverse to the left. 3 pitons. Sec. 4–5 7 m, 5°, IV– cat. Pas­sage be­tween rocks with a cre­vice. Back­pack is re­moved and passed for­ward. 2 pitons. Out­let onto the ridge. Sec. 5–6 15 m, 60°, III+ cat. Snow-covered wall. Out­let onto a sen­tinel. Sta­tion be­hind a pro­tru­sion. Sec. 6–7 90 m, II+ cat. Tra­verse of a sharp ridge. Belay on pro­tru­sions and 1 piton. Out­let onto Partizan peak 2428 m (GPS) from the west.

De­scent via the as­cent route. One rappel. The re­port is com­piled based on de­scrip­tions and pho­tographs of two as­cents: 2007 and 2017.

4. Pan­orama of Vet­re­ny, from the Tunkin val­ley to the right.
5. Ridge of v. Par­ti­zan and tri­an­gu­la­tor on the geo­de­sic point Ulyabor.

Fig. 10

10. Key sec­tion.
11. On sec­tion 5. A par­tic­i­pant dem­on­strates re­mov­ing a back­pack when pass­ing through a cre­vice.
12. First as­cen­der reach­ing the sum­mit.
13. De­scent via the as­cent route.

Two groups on the sum­mit of Par­ti­zan, hav­ing as­cended via dif­ferent routes.