Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Region — Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai
3. Peak 2676 m via NE ridge from Snezhnij pass
4. Assumed — first ascent, category III complexity
5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 376 m.
• total length 550 m.
• length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 80 m, 4th category — 130 m, 3rd category — 40 m, 1st category — 300 m.
• average slope: entire route — 60°.

6. Equipment used on the route:

• chocks — 12,
• pitons — 3,
• including for artificial climbing aids — 3,
• left behind — 0.

7. Total climbing hours — 11
8. Team composition:

• Leader: Katanaev Stanislav Yur'evich — 1st sports category
• Participant: Zhigalov Aleksandr Vladimirovich — 1st sports category

9. Team coach:

• Obednin Konstantin Aleksandrovich

10. Dates:

• Departure to the route October 19, 2012, 7:00
• Summit — 13:30
• Return — 18:00

11. Organized by: Krasnoyarsk City Federation of Alpinism, as part of the training gatherings Baruun-Khandagai 2012. General photo of the route

UIAA Scheme

Scheme 1. UIAA Scheme.

Route Description

R0–R1. The route starts from the upper lake. The first section is a talus slope, which narrows and gradually turns into a couloir. Movement is simultaneous. The slope's steepness is 20–30°, gradually increasing as you ascend. Exit to the pass.

R1–R2. From the pass, left along the ridge to the first jagged peaks. Alternating protection.

R2–R3. We bypass the first "saw-like" jagged peak from the left, following the ledges. Station is behind a small chimney.

R3–R4. The ridge continues with "saw-like" jagged peaks. We bypass them in the same manner, on the left via ledges. Station is on a convenient large ledge.

R4–R5. Through an inner corner to the top of the jagged peak.

R5–R6. The key section of the route. Descend 10 m under the "Mukhboxka". A large stone lying on the destroyed ridge. Complex climbing along the ridge. At the end, an overhanging wall with a crack. Many loose rocks.

R6–R7. From the station, right along the ridge through a wall — a complex chimney with an exit via a "coil" to the summit. A cairn is built in a depression on the summit boulder.

Descent is via climbing down the ascent route.

Section R0–R1Passage of section R1–R2

Section R3–R4