Schematic map of the ascent area
TABLE
MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO V.2678 m.
| Date | Designation | Avg. steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| I | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9—II |
| May 3, 1980 | 0—I | 50 | 120 m | slope | 1—2 | broken rocks, snowy ledges | cloudy, calm | outcrops |
| I—2 | 65 | 80 m | walls up to 12–20 m | 3—4 | snow-covered monolithic blocky rocks | 7 | ||
| 55 | 80 m | slope, walls | 1—2 | snow-covered destroyed rocks | outcrops | |||
| 2—3 | 65 | 40 m | wall | 3 | snow-covered blocky rocks | 3 | ||
| 55 | 80 m | slope | 2—3 | destroyed rocks, walls | 3 | |||
| 60 | 40 m | slope, exit to the buttress | 2—3 | monolithic blocky rocks, slabs, snow | 3 | |||
| 3—4 | 40 | 250 m | ridge of the buttress I | destroyed rocks, snow | - | |||
| 4—5 | 5 | 150 m | talus | - | fine, snow | - |
Description of the approach to the route and brief explanation of the table
From the base camp on the edge of the forest, up the Zuun-Khandagai river. After climbing the large-block talus of the ridge and the lake (1–1.5 hours approach) to the left - in the central part of the array, a dark wall with horizontal, snow-covered ledges (under the buttress mark 2678 m). To the right of the wall - along the destroyed rocks and snowy ledges - a detour of the lower rocky part of the buttress - 2 ropes. Further, the route goes to the right side of the buttress. 2 ropes - medium, sometimes complex climbing. 2 ropes - along the destroyed rocks - exit to a narrow bridge in the buttress. 1 rope - bypass to the right of the rock slab along the moderately difficult rocks. 2 ropes along easy rocks and slabs to the right of the ridge, exit to the buttress. 1 rope - along the moderately difficult rocks of the buttress. 250 m - along easy snowy rocks to the sub-summit. 150 m - along the talus to the summit. Descent along the northwestern ridge, along the destroyed rocks (1st cat. difficulty) - to the Dinosaur pass and further down to the lake. Recommendations - to have universal pitons and channels.