Pas­sport of as­cent to the sum­mit Ar­kov V.V. 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir, cat. 2A, diff. cat. 1. East­ern Sa­yan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Bu­go­toy val­ley, sec­tion 6.1.

Sum­mit Ar­kov V.V., 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir.

Pro­posed cat. 2A, first as­cent.

Route char­ac­ter is rocky.

Height dif­fer­ence 200 m, length 420 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°.

Pitons driv­en: rocky and stop­pers 7 pcs.

Team's mov­ing hours — 5 h.

No over­night stays on the route.

Group:

Afa­na­siev A.E. MS, Ba­ru­lin A.G. 3rd sports rank, Gei­da­rov K.G. 2nd sports rank, Ki­se­le­vich I.S. 3rd sports rank, Ras­ska­zov D.V. 3rd sports rank, Ro­zhin A.Yu. 2nd sports rank

10. Coach Afa­na­siev A.E. MS
11. As­cent to the sum­mit and re­turn on Au­gust 10, 2012

De­scrip­tion of the first as­cent route to the sum­mit Ar­kov V.V. (2391) via the South-West wall couloir, cat. 2A.

Ap­proach from the base camp along the Bu­go­toy val­ley to­wards v. Go­len­du­khi­na un­der the walls of the South­ern ridge v. Ar­kov. Fur­ther to the right along the way to the foot of the right couloir of the SW wall. Along the talus even slope 35° to the couloir gate for about 200 me­ters. Be­gin­ning of the route, we link up.

Sec. 0–1 100 m. 45° I+ Squeeze of the lower couloir gate. Sec. 1–2 150 m. 40° I– Snowy talus in the couloir. Sec. 2–3 40 m. 40° I+ Ce­men­ted grave­l. Out­put to the South­ern ridge saddle. Sec. 3–4 40 m. 35° I– Snowy ridge — un­der the lime­stone out­crop. Sec. 4–5 15 m. 60° III– Wall of the out­crop. 3 pitons. Sec. 5–6 25 m. 50° II+ Ridge of the out­crop. Sta­tion on pitons. Per­ils. Sec. 6–7 30 m. 50° II– Ridge. Lime­stone. Sec. 7–8 40 m. 50° II+ A bit to the left of the ridge along the bro­ken rocks. Sec. 8–9 60 m. 45° II– Ridge. Sec. 9–10 100 m. 35° I– Wide ridge. Out­put to a small peak. Sec. 10–11 40 m. 20° I– Ridge to the West­ern sum­mit. Sec. 11–12 60 m. 0° I– Tra­verse un­der the main sum­mit. Sec. 12–13 10 m. 50° I+ Wall of west­ern ex­po­sure. Out­put to the sum­mit.

The sum­mit is lo­cat­ed in a sharp ridge, bend­ing from sub­merid­i­o­nal di­rec­tion to lat­i­tu­di­nal.

The sum­mit is named af­ter the spe­cial forces of­fi­cer, who died at the hands of vil­lainy in the North­ern Cau­ca­sus, Ar­kov Vi­tal­iy Va­ler­ie­vich.

De­scent along the south­ern slope.

At­ten­tion: ava­lanche dan­ger is pos­si­ble. In this case, de­scent along the as­cent path.