As­cent pass­port to the peak Za­go­rul­ko S.A. 2428 m, via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level 1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Bu­go­toy valley, sec­tion 6.1.

  1. Peak Za­go­rul­ko S.A., 2428 m, via South ridge.
  2. Pro­posed cat. 2A diff. level, first as­cent.
  3. Na­ture of the route is rocky.
  4. Ele­va­tion gain 200 m, length 400 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°.
  5. Pit­ons driv­en: rocky and place­ment type 4 pcs.
  6. Team's walk­ing hours — 5 h.
  7. No over­night stays on the route.
  8. Group:

Afa­nas­yev A.E. MS, Volo­dov A.N. 3rd sports rank, Pos­pe­lov A.S. 3rd sports rank, Ro­zin A.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vo­ro­byov P.Yu. badge hold­er, Go­lo­vin V.V. badge hold­er, Pro­khnit­sky D.A. badge hold­er, Tash­ly­kov V.A. badge hold­er

  1. Coach Afa­nas­yev A.E. MS
  2. Sum­mit reach and re­turn on Au­gust 10, 2008.

De­scrip­tion of the first as­cent route to peak Za­go­rul­ko S.A. (2428 m) via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level.

Ap­proach from Bu­go­toy val­ley. Fur­ther right­wards along the path to cirques:

  • Three-head­ed
  • 9 May
  • "Sub­ma­rine" and "Sub­ma­rine"
  • Za­go­rul­ko.

Into the left cirque straight and left­wards. Along the left slope (East­ern part of South ridge) till steep sec­tion. Start of the route, we put on cram­pons, rope up.

Sec­tion 0–R1 400 m. 40° I– Steep grassy even slope. Sec­tion R1–R2 50 m. 55° II+ Snowy rock. Sec­tion R2–R3 40 m. 10° II– Sharp rocky wavy ridge. Sec­tion R3–R4 60 m. I+ Snowy shelf left of the ridge. Small de­scent along the slope 40°. Sec­tion R4–R5 70 m. 35° I– Snowy slope left­wards till the ridge isth­mus. Sec­tion R5–R6 150 m. 30° I– By­pass­ing the sen­tinel rock right­wards along the snowy slope. Ex­it to East­ern ridge. Sec­tion R6–R7 50 m. 30° I– Left of the ridge. Sec­tion R7–R8 50 m. 50° II– Along SE slope till South ridge. Sec­tion R8–R9 30 m. 20° I– Along South ridge till the sum­mit named af­ter the spe­cial forces of­fi­cer who died at the hands of crim­i­nals in North Cau­ca­sus, Za­go­rul­ko Ser­gey Ana­to­lyevich.

De­scent along the as­cent path till base camp. Tech­ni­cal and pan­o­ram­ic pho­to of Za­go­rul­ko S.A. img-0.jpeg

Sources

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