Pas­sport as­cen­sion to the sum­mit Go­len­du­khin A.L. 2441 m, via South ridge, cat. 1B diff. level 1. East­ern Sa­yan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Tal­ta val­ley, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Sum­mit Go­len­du­khin A.L., 2441 m, via South ridge. 3. Pro­posed 1B diff. level, first as­cen­sion. 4. Na­ture of the route — rocky. 5. Ele­va­tion gain 200 m, length 450 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 4 pcs. 7. Team's walk­ing hours — 4 h. 8. No over­night stays on the route. 9. Team: Apha­na­siev A.E. MS

Isa­en­ko M.Yu. nov. Me­zrin E.V. nov. Mu­ko­vkin A.N. nov. Ni­ko­la­ev V.A. nov. Sta­syuk P.N. nov. Te­ren­tiev N.S. nov. Sher­shak E.M. nov.

  1. Coach Apha­na­siev A.E. MS

  2. As­cen­sion to the sum­mit and re­turn on Sep­tem­ber 21, 2007

De­scrip­tion of the first as­cen­sion route to the sum­mit Go­len­du­khin A.L. 2441 m, via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level.

The sum­mit is lo­ca­ted on the main Tun­kin ridge at the jun­c­tion of Tal­ta and Bu­go­toy val­leys from the south and Eke-Gol val­ley from the north.

Ap­proach from Tal­ta val­ley to the pass in the south­ern spur of MTR be­tween Tal­ta and Bu­go­ta val­leys. Pass heigh is about 2230 m. (In tou­rist gui­des this pass is cal­led Sol­nechny, and its heigh is gi­ven erro­neously — 2350 m.)

Fur­ther left along the track to the South ridge of Go­len­du­khin peak. Start of the route, ge­aring up, ro­ping up.

Sec­tion 0–1 100 m. 30° I — Ridge is grassy and slight­ly snow-cove­red. Ap­proach to the rocks.

Sec­tion 1–2 20 m. I+ Tra­ver­se right along a nar­row snow shelf.

Sec­tion 2–3 10 m. 60° II+ In­ner cor­ner in the rock wall to the right of the ridge. Key sec­tion of the route.

Sec­tion 3–4, 10 m, 55°, II–. Rocky gul­ly. Pro­tec­tion on out­crops.

Sec­tion 4–5, 40 m, 50°, II–. Steep slope. Ex­it to the ridge. Rocks to the right.

Sec­tion 5–6, 70 m, 35°, I+. To the left of the ridge. Simul­ta­neous move­ment. Steep rocky-scree slope. Al­ter­na­te move­ment. 1 wired pro­tec­tion.

Sec­tion 6–7, 50 m, 30°, I+. Ridge, par­tly sharp. Ridge leads to a steep slope.

Sec­tion 7–8, 10 m, I–. Wide gen­tly slo­ping snow shelf.

Sec­tion 8–9, 80 m, 55°, II–. Steep rocky snow-cove­red slope in the di­rec­tion with left tilt. In the upper part, tran­si­tion slight­ly right. Ex­it to the "roof". Slope is scree and snow-cove­red.

Sec­tion 9–10, 60 m, 20° I — grassy-scree wide ridge. Ex­it to the sum­mit Go­len­du­khin A.L.

The as­cen­sion was made on the ninth day of me­mo­ry of the spe­cial forces of­fi­cer Go­len­du­khin Alek­sandr Lu­kich, who died in a clash with ban­dits.

Des­cent via south-west ridge of Go­len­du­khin A.L. peak.

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