As­cent pass­port to the ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via South-Western ridge, cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ula­gol gul­ly, sec­tion 6.1.

  1. Ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via North­ern slope.
  2. Pro­posed cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty, first as­cent.
  3. Char­ac­ter of the route is rocky.
  4. Al­ti­tude dif­fer­ence 630 m.

dis­tance 950 m. av­er­age steep­ness 47°. 6. Pitons driven: rocky and stop­pers 11 pcs. 7. Team's work­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No biv­ou­acs on the route. 9. Group: Ak­syo­nov A.V. CMS, Vas­il­yev M.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vi­no­gra­dov N.N. 3rd sports rank, Go­lo­vin V.V. 3rd sports rank, Gey­da­rov K.G. 3rd sports rank, March­u­kov K.F. 3rd sports rank. 10. Coach Afa­na­syev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the sum­mit and re­turn April 30, 2010.

Description of the ascent route to the vertex of General Koryakov (3032 m) via south-western ridge, cat. III dif.

Ap­proach along Ula­gol gul­ly straight to the north till Gen­er­al­sky creek. Be­gin­ning of the ap­proach to the route — from the con­flu­ence of Gen­er­al­sky creek and Ula­gol creek — along the mid­dle talus. The route starts at an al­ti­tude of 2400 m, where the slope be­comes steep, and in the up­per part grad­u­ally tran­si­tions into a cou­loir.

Sec. 0–1 250 m. 35° I– Along a snow-cov­ered talus slope, tran­si­tion­ing into a cou­loir be­neath a red sen­tinel. Sec. 1–2 40 m. 40° III+ To the right of the red sen­tinel, into the top of the cou­loir, out onto a saddle up to 2607 m. Sec. 2–3 20 m. 70° IV– Rocks up­wards to the right, above the saddle. 3 pitons. Sec. 3–4 30 m. 45° II– A snow shelf to the left into the cou­loir. Sec. 4–5 130 m. 40° I+ A snow cou­loir. Ap­proach to the "ram's fore­heads". Sec. 5–6 60 m. 60° III+ "Ram's fore­heads". Piton pro­tec­tion. Sec. 6–7 120 m. 45° II– Along the fol­low­ing snow cou­loir, ap­proach­ing rocks of mod­er­ate dif­fi­cul­ty. Sec. 7–8 60 m. 55° III– Snow-cov­ered rocks. Pro­tec­tion via pitons and pro­tru­sions. Out onto the Pogon pre-sum­mit. Sec. 8–9 150 m. 5° I – Flat Pogon field. Move­ment in an east­ern di­rec­tion along the pla­teau to its high­est point. Sec. 9–10 30 m. III+ Rap­pel onto the saddle be­tween Pogon and the sum­mit. A sling left on a rocky out­crop. Sec. 10–11 60 m. 45° II+ Snow-cov­ered rocks. Pro­tec­tion via pro­tru­sions. Out onto the sum­mit of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov. The sum­mit is named af­ter Ko­rya­kov Ser­gey Bo­ri­sovich, who per­ished in an air­craft crash.

De­scent from the sum­mit back to the saddle. From the saddle be­tween the sum­mit and pre-sum­mit — de­scent along a straight, vis­i­ble-to-the-bot­tom cou­loir of north-west­ern ex­po­si­tion.

  • Ini­tial­ly 3rd sports rank
  • Fol­lowed by si­mul­ta­ne­ous move­ment

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