Ascent passport to the vertex of General Koryakov (3032 m) via South-Western ridge, cat. III difficulty. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Ulagol gully, section 6.1.
- Vertex of General Koryakov (3032 m) via Northern slope.
- Proposed cat. III difficulty, first ascent.
- Character of the route is rocky.
- Altitude difference 630 m.
distance 950 m. average steepness 47°. 6. Pitons driven: rocky and stoppers 11 pcs. 7. Team's working hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Group: Aksyonov A.V. CMS, Vasilyev M.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vinogradov N.N. 3rd sports rank, Golovin V.V. 3rd sports rank, Geydarov K.G. 3rd sports rank, Marchukov K.F. 3rd sports rank. 10. Coach Afanasyev A.E. MS. 11. Ascent to the summit and return April 30, 2010.
Description of the ascent route to the vertex of General Koryakov (3032 m) via south-western ridge, cat. III dif.
Approach along Ulagol gully straight to the north till Generalsky creek. Beginning of the approach to the route — from the confluence of Generalsky creek and Ulagol creek — along the middle talus. The route starts at an altitude of 2400 m, where the slope becomes steep, and in the upper part gradually transitions into a couloir.
Sec. 0–1 250 m. 35° I– Along a snow-covered talus slope, transitioning into a couloir beneath a red sentinel. Sec. 1–2 40 m. 40° III+ To the right of the red sentinel, into the top of the couloir, out onto a saddle up to 2607 m. Sec. 2–3 20 m. 70° IV– Rocks upwards to the right, above the saddle. 3 pitons. Sec. 3–4 30 m. 45° II– A snow shelf to the left into the couloir. Sec. 4–5 130 m. 40° I+ A snow couloir. Approach to the "ram's foreheads". Sec. 5–6 60 m. 60° III+ "Ram's foreheads". Piton protection. Sec. 6–7 120 m. 45° II– Along the following snow couloir, approaching rocks of moderate difficulty. Sec. 7–8 60 m. 55° III– Snow-covered rocks. Protection via pitons and protrusions. Out onto the Pogon pre-summit. Sec. 8–9 150 m. 5° I – Flat Pogon field. Movement in an eastern direction along the plateau to its highest point. Sec. 9–10 30 m. III+ Rappel onto the saddle between Pogon and the summit. A sling left on a rocky outcrop. Sec. 10–11 60 m. 45° II+ Snow-covered rocks. Protection via protrusions. Out onto the summit of General Koryakov. The summit is named after Koryakov Sergey Borisovich, who perished in an aircraft crash.
Descent from the summit back to the saddle. From the saddle between the summit and pre-summit — descent along a straight, visible-to-the-bottom couloir of north-western exposition.
- Initially 3rd sports rank
- Followed by simultaneous movement
