To No. 583 of 19.04.1988 ASCENT RECORD

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing.
2. Area of ascent: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tigertysh Ridge.
3. Peak "Bolshoi Zub" 2048 m above sea level. The route is a combination via the northern edge of the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A category.
5. Height difference — about 600 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons 3 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours: ascent 6 hours, descent 3 hours.
8. No overnight stays are planned; the route is completed in 1 day.

Characteristics of the Region

Administratively, the region is part of the Askizsky District of the Krasnoyarsk Krai and borders on the Kemerovo Oblast to the east. The mountain-taiga steel railway line Novokuznetsk—Abakan connects the remote, previously hard-to-reach areas of Khakassia and Kuznetsk Alatau. Departing from Novokuznetsk station at 17:25, the train arrives at Luzba station at 23:30 local time. The region's climate is sharply continental and harsh. Abundant precipitation contributes to the lush development of vegetation in the summer. During the winter months, a thick snow cover accumulates; in river valleys, it reaches a thickness of 2–3 meters, hiding buildings under it. In settlements:

• Footpaths are laid at the level of eaves;
• Train compositions run along tracks in deep snow trenches. The administrative boundary of the regions almost coincides with the climatic boundary: the eastern slopes of Kuznetsk Alatau, located in Khakassia, differ significantly from the western slopes in terms of precipitation, and in winter, the snow cover is much less beyond the Tiger-Tyshsky and Surgassky ridges. This area has significantly more sunny days than the valleys of the Kozyr, Bel-Su, Amzas rivers, etc. Relief. Kuznetsk Alatau, bordering the Kuznetsk depression to the east, is an orographically complex massif where absolute heights reach 2000–2100 m above sea level. The region is generally characterized by mid-mountain relief, transitioning into small-hilly, hilly-ridge relief to the east (Photo 1).

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VERSHININA EASTERN (3450 m) VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE 4A category of complexity BY THE TEAM FROM BAIKALSKAYA ALPINISM SCHOOL July 5, 2021 Irkutsk, 2022

I. Ascent Report

Passport

1. Region — Altai. Northern spur of the South Altai ridge.
2. Peak — Pik Pamyati patriotov, 3926 m.
3. Route — via north-eastern ridge, 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Height difference 500–600 m. Steepness of the route 25–35°. Insurance via ice axe.
5. Duration — 5.5 hours.
6. Group composition: Vlasov V.A. — Master of Sports. Semenov S.A. — 1st sports category. Tankova M.V. — 1st sports category.

The address of the group leader: Perm, Druzhby st., house No. 16, apt. No. 58, postcode 614070. Tel.: (3422) 65-16-78. E-mail: otorten@ocpi.ru. In the "Format" menu, specify the following:

• sent text
• use encoding — Cyrillic KOI8-R Korolev A. Yu. All questions related to the ascent should be sent to this address. The heights indicated in the report were determined using contour lines on a topographic map with a scale of 1:200,000.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter.
2. Ascent area — Altai, Mongolian Altai ridge.

PASSPORT

1. Category of first ascents.
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area.
3. Pik Chuyskiy 3rd slope.
4. Proposed 4B category of difficulty for the first ascent.
5. Height 3777 m. Elevation gain 460 m. Length 680 m.
6. Pitons: 29 ice screws for belay.
7. Climbing hours: 14.
8. Overnight stays: not necessary.
9. Leader: Andrey V. Drakin, Candidate Master of Sports.

Passport

1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol gorge (Sofiysky glacier area), 1.3
2. Sister (Middle) – Sister (3) 3721 m traverse.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — mixed.
5. Height difference 225 m. Distance 800 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 29°, total route 22°.
6. Ice screws used — 6.
7. Total climbing time — 5 hours (from the bergschrund).
8. Leader Drakkin Andrey Valentinovich CMS, 1st sports category, № 68.
9. Participants: Abornev S. — 3rd sports category

Passport

1. First Ascent
2. Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol River valley
3. v. Ostyry via NE ridge
4. Proposed category 2B
5. Height 3731 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 680 m
6. Pitons: Ice screws — 8 pcs.
7. Total climbing time 12 hours from bivouac to bivouac 7 hours from bergschrund below the ridge to the glacier under S ridge

PASSPORT

1. First Ascent
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge
3. v. Ostriy via N ridge
4. Category 1B difficulty proposed
5. Height 3751 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 850 m
6. Equipment: ice screws — 3 pcs.
7. Overnight stays: not required
8. Climbing time 10 hours from bivouac to bivouac, 5 hours from glacier to glacier.
9. Leader: Barnov S.I. — 1st sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, South Chuya Range, classifier section 1.3
2. Olga (Eastern — Western), traverse.
3. Proposed category: 2A.
4. Route type: ice and snow.
5. Route elevation gain: 700 m. Route length: 1970 m. Length of sections with category V: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 27°.
6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, drilled pitons: 0.
7. Team's total climbing time: 25 hours, 2 days.