North America

Mountain range5,043,138.04 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
3

Report on the ascent of the Russian team to Mount McKinley (6194 m) via the West Buttress in 1998.

Passport

  1. High-altitude technical class
  2. Alaska, Alaska Range
  3. Peak McKinley (Denali) 6194 m via West Counterforce
  4. Proposed category of complexity — 5B
  5. Elevation gain — 4000 m, length — 26 km, average steepness of main part — 20°
  6. Ice screws used — 15 pcs., anchors — 2 pcs.
  7. Team's travel days — 8 (ascent), 3 (descent)
  8. Overnights (total) — 15 on snow-ice platforms
  9. Team captain — Yanochkin V. I. (MSMK)
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Report on the ascent of the Chelyabinsk Region Alpine Federation team to the summit of McKinley via the West Rib in 2008.

Chelyabinsk Region Alpinism Federation High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

Report

on the ascent to the summit of McKinley, 6196 m, via West Rib approximately 5B category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

  1. Competition class: Russian Championship, high-altitude technical class
  2. Region — Alaska, Alaska Range;
  3. Summit — McKinley 6196 m;
  4. Ascent route: via West Rib;
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Report on the ascent by the CSKA team to the summit of Cerberus Gendarme 1341 m in Zion National Park, USA, via the Touchstone Wall route of estimated 6A grade.

Russian Alpine Federation

Moscow Alpine Championship 2012

Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after A.S. Demchenko to the summit of Cerberus Gendarme 1341 m

via the south wall, Touchstone Wall route Presumably 6A category. The ascent was made by a team of two:

  • N.E. Prilepskaya
  • M.A. Nechaeva
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Report on the ascents of the Regular Northwest Face and Queen of Spades routes to the summit of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, made by a team from the Magnitogorsk alpine club in 2000.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Sierra Nevada Mountains (Yosemite National Park, California, USA).
  3. Half Dome summit, combination of Regular Northwest Face and North Ridge routes.
  4. Proposed category of complexity 6A cat. sl.
  5. Height difference — 550 m, route length — 732 m. Length of 5–6 grade sections — 732 m, out of which 6 grade — 216 m, average steepness of the route — 81°.
  6. Means of protection and artificial climbing aids used (in the denominator):
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Report on the ascent of "The Nose" route on El Capitan in Yosemite, complexity category 6B, climbed by a three-person team in 4 days in May 1996.

Ascent Log

  1. Category — technical.
  2. Sierra-Nevada, Yosemite Valley (USA)
  3. Summit «El Capitan», route «The Nose».
  4. Proposed — 6B cat. diff. (according to American classification: VI 5.11 A3).
  5. Elevation gain: 870 m; length 1020 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 210 m; 6th cat. diff. — 810 m; Average slope: 82°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock protection bolts
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Ascent report of the "Alpindustria" national team climbing El Capitan in Yosemite via the "The Nose" route, category 6B.

Ascent Passport

To the summit of El Capitan, made by the team "Alpindustry" (Georgia, Rustavi) at the CIS Alpine Championship

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing
  2. Ascent region: Yosemite National Park, Sierra Nevada mountain range, USA
  3. Peak, route: El Capitan, via the south wall (route "The Nose")
  4. Expected difficulty category: 6B
  5. Height difference: 1200 m
  • of which wall part: 1200 m
  • total route length: 1400 m
  • wall part length: 1400 m
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Ascent record of El Capitan via "Salathe" route, category 6B, in Yosemite, USA, made in May 1997.

Ascent Record

  1. Category — Technical.
  2. Sierra Nevada, Yosemite Valley, USA.
  3. Peak — "El Capitan", "Salathe" route.
  4. Proposed — 6B cat. diff. (VI 5.13.A4).
  5. Elevation gain: 870 m; length: 1060 m. Length of sections: 5 cat. diff. — 180 m; 6 cat. diff. — 880 m. Average steepness: 86°.
  6. Pitons used: rock, nuts, bolt. | 8* | 420 | 36* |
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Report on the ascent of the "Zodiac" route on the South-East wall of El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, made by Russian climbers in 1999.

Ascent Record

  1. Ascent category — technical
  2. Ascent area — USA, California, Yosemite National Park
  3. El Capitan 2498 m. Southeast wall, "Zodiac" route (2nd Russian ascent)
  4. Complexity category — 6 (proposed) VI, 5.11, A3+ American scale.
  5. Height difference — 600 m. Length 720 m (16 ropes). Average steepness of the route – 90°.
  6. Pitons left on the route:
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Report on the ascent of Category 6B route on the wall of El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, by a team from the alpine club of Magnitogorsk in 2000.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Sierra-Nevada Mountains (Yosemite National Park, California, USA).
  3. El Capitan peak, South-West wall (Wyoming Sheep Ranch route).
  4. Proposed difficulty category 6B.
  5. Height difference — 810 m, route length — 1012 m (wall), length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1012 m, of which 6 category — 906 m, average steepness of the route — 95°
  6. Used means for belaying and I.T.O. (in the denominator): | Rock Climbing Hooks | Placement Elements | Bolts for I.T.O. | Sky(cam)-hooks | |:--------------------|:--------------------|:-----------------|:---------------| | 73 / 73 | 433 + 16* / 430 | 31* / 31 | 169 |
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Route documentation for El Capitan (USA) via the 10-V wall, complexity category 6B, ascended by Russian climbers in October 2000.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Sierra Nevada Mountains (Yosemite National Park, California, USA).
  3. El Capitan peak, South-West wall (Atlantic Ocean Wall route).
  4. Proposed category of complexity 6B cat. sl.
  5. Height difference — 720 m, route length — 1007 m (wall), length of sections 5–6 cat. sl. — 907 m, including 6 cat. sl. — 707 m, average steepness of the route — 91°.
  6. Used means for insurance and I. T. O. (in the denominator): rock placements 57+7*/60,
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