PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing category.

  2. Sierra Nevada Mountains (Yosemite National Park, California, USA).

  3. El Capitan peak, South-West wall (Atlantic Ocean Wall route).

  4. Proposed category of complexity 6B cat. sl.

  5. Height difference — 720 m, route length — 1007 m (wall), length of sections 5–6 cat. sl. — 907 m, including 6 cat. sl. — 707 m, average steepness of the route — 91°.

  6. Used means for insurance and I. T. O. (in the denominator): rock placements 57+7*/60, hook elements 305+24*/320, bolts for ITO 42*/42, sky(cam)-hooks 87 were used.

    * — stationary on the route. Here, 2–3 bolted hooks at insurance stations are not taken into account.

  7. Team's working hours — 45.5 hours. Days on the route — 3.5.

  8. Overnights: 1 — on a platform, 1 — lying on a ledge, 1 — on the summit.

  9. Participants: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich Oleinikov Yuri Vladimirovich MS

  10. Coach: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich MS

  11. Exit to the route: October 4, 2000 (15:00), summit: October 7, 2000 (21:30), return to BL: October 8, 2000 (08:45).

  12. Organization: Alpkлуб g. Magnitogorsk.

Participants:

Igolkin V. I.

Oleinikov Yu. V.

Address: 455000, Magnitogorsk, Lenina 37-23, tel. (3511) 21-10-24 sl., 32-71-86 (Igolkin V. I.).

El Capitan

Atlantic Ocean Wall

img-0.jpeg

October 7, 2000 (22:00)

  • 2320 m
  • 25 (point)

October 6, 2000 (height 2010 m)

  • Processing

October 5, 2000 (height 1850 m)

October 4, 2000 (height 1720 m)

  • Traverse 60 m
  • Traverse 40 m

October 4, 2000 (15:00)

  • 1600 m (4800 feet)
  • 91°

www.apfederation.ru

№ stepRock placementsBoltsElem.HooksNotesSectionCat. sl.LengthSteepness
29+4*7*10R12–R1363795°
216+3*7*6R11–R1263795°
519+1*4*11R10–R1164395°
127--R9–R1065095°
5+1*15+1*1*8October 5, 2000 19:30R8–R964390°
327+1*1*10R7–R8650100°
423+1*3*7October 6, 2000 7:00R6–R7647100°
4+1*11+1*1*-R5–R6620140°
473*4Processing 20:00 (4.10)R4–R563790°
-5--R3–R4515/6075°
-12--R2–R354075°
-6--R1–R254765°
-57*4R0–R165050°

Route diagram in YUAA symbols

El Capitan

Atlantic Ocean Wall

October 7, 2000 21:30

№ stepRock placementsA-classBoltsElem.HooksNotesSectionCat. sl.LengthSteepness
-7--R24–R2555370°
5+2*A27+1*5*4R23–R24623110°
34+3*1*3R22–R2355280°
2A1171*-R21–R2263390°
4+2*A311+1*1*4R20–R2164395°
2A123--R19–R2064395°
3A314+3*6*5R18–R1964095°
1A24+1*-2R16–R1761095°
2A26+2*1*2R15–R1662095°
2A211+2*2*3Processing - 19:30R14–R1563795°
5+1*A29+2*-4October 6, 2000 18:00R13–R1463790°
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Sources

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