Report

On the ascent of Peak Ahmadi Donish via the East Wall August 3–8, 1966 Team of the Central Council of the Lokomotiv Sports Society

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

Peak Ahmadi Donish is located in the Academy of Sciences Range in the northwestern part of the Pamir Mountains, between Peak Izvesti (6856 m) and Peak Kalinin (6560 m). The height of Peak Ahmadi Donish is 6667 m. It was discovered in the mid-1930s. To the southeast of the peak, a lateral ridge extends towards the Bivachny Glacier; to the northwest, another ridge continues, featuring peaks such as:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m)
• Peak Korzhenevskoi (7105 m). There have been two ascents to Peak Ahmadi Donish. The first ascent was made by a team from the Central Council of Spartak under the leadership of V.M. Abalakov, participating in the competition for the best ascent of the 1959 season.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - high-altitude
2. Ascent area - North-Western Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Akhmad Doniša, 6666 m, western wall
4. Proposed difficulty category - 6
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference - 1666 m
   • length of sections 5–6 difficulty category - 1295 m
   • average steepness - 60°

I. Brief geographical description and climbing characteristics of the traverse

The peaks of the traverse are located on the northwestern Pamir. In its northern part, the meridional ridge of the Pamir - the Academy of Sciences Range - forks, giving a powerful branch to the west, which ends at Peak E. Korzhenevskaya. The fork is formed by the massif of Peak Voroshilov, representing a more than 3-kilometer uplift in the form of a ridge, fluctuating in height from 6666 m to 6500 m. The ridge has significant ruggedness (from 7105 m to 5300 m), but nevertheless represents a single massif both geographically and in mountaineering terms. The massif is bounded by two powerful glaciers (Ayu-Dzhilga and Moskvin) and separates two large valleys (Ayu-Dzhilga and Fortambek). The peaks within the massif had already been conquered via the simplest routes:

• Peak Voroshilov from the east;
• Peak Chetyrekh from the southwest;

Ascent Passport

Appendix No. 1 I. High-altitude and technical category 2. Ascent area — Central Pamir 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights — Southwest wall of Peak "Ahmad Donish" (6666 m) 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 2300 m average steepness — 75° length of complex sections — 1340 m 5. Pitons driven:

1987 RSFSR Alpine Championship

High-altitude Climbing Category

Ir. 576 p. 9 dated 6.10.87 2nd ascent of V. Smirnov route, 6th category of difficulty PEAK AKHMAI DONISH 6666 m The photo contains a report from Smirnov's institute, but it was not provided to the team. Recorded with counter-V. Approved for the ascent of Peak Akhmad Donish via the South Face (№ 4.1.5 according to KTMGV) by the team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee. Second ascent. Team Leader

Climbing Passport

Completed in the 1975 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship Climbing class: High-altitude technical. Climbing area: Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier. Climbing route: Peak Akhmad Donish (6665 m) via the South face. Climbing characteristics: height difference 2300 m, average steepness 73°, length of complex sections 1610 m (steepness 81°). Number of pitons used: rock - 357, ice - 13, bolted - 2. Total climbing hours - 90.5 hours. Number of bivouacs - 10 (excluding preparation day), including: lying down - 4 (all in one location - weather waiting), sitting - 6. Additionally, two lying down bivouacs on the summit - weather waiting. Team name: Leningrad City Sports Committee Team. Team members:

1. Solonnikov Viktor Aleksandrovich - Master of Sports, captain, coach
2. Grachev Andrei Borisovich - Master of Sports, participant
3. Borzov Yuri Vyacheslavovich - Master of Sports, participant
4. Vikulin Stanislav Aleksandrovich - Master of Sports, participant
5. Smirnov Alexey Aleksandrovich - Candidate for Master of Sports, participant

I. Altitude class 2. Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier 3. Peak Akhmad-Donish via South Face. 4. 6B, second ascent 5. Elevation gain: 2300 m, length 2585 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff.: 2142 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 73°30′, including 6 cat. diff.: 80° (80 m), 85° (65 m), 90° (175 m), 95° (56 m). 6. Pitons driven:

Rock	Bolt	Nuts	Ice
335	0	137	54
18	0	15	0

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical. II. Ascent area — Central Pamir. III. Southwest wall of Peak Akhmad-Donish (6666 m). IV. Ascent characteristics: * height difference — 2300 m; * average steepness — 76°; * complex section length — 870 m. V. Number of pitons: rock — 364, ice — 5, bolted — 0. VI. Total travel time — 62.5 hours.

Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.