33. Doppakh Western — Eastern (combined route by I. Suzhaev, 5a category of difficulty).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the Psygansu river bank, under the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Western Doppakh summit is described in the routes:

• 24
• 26
• 27
• 28 From the Western summit, a simple 120–150-meter snow slope of the Eastern ridge leads to a small snow plateau in the direction of the Central summit. The bivouac is on the plateau. From here:
• 180–200 m along the snowy Eastern ridge,
• then along a steep 60–80-meter icy slope to a site near the ice-snow col between the Western and Central summits of the massif.

34. Doppakh Eastern — Western (A. Zyuzin's combined route, 5A cat. dif.).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (4-8 people group), to the summit of Eastern Doppakh is described in routes 31, 32. From Eastern Doppakh, descend in the direction of Central Doppakh along a 40-meter steep rocky ridge to a small saddle with a summit tower. From it, make a 30 m rappel to the left, then along a ledge on the left side of the tower, exit to the western ridge of the summit. Further, along rocks of medium difficulty, ascend 30 m along the ridge to the Black Gendarme. From it, make a 25 m rappel along steep, destroyed rocks to the ridge. From here, along simple, destroyed rocks of the ridge, passing a saddle, ascend to the Flat Gendarme. From the Gendarme, descend to an ice-snow saddle. From the saddle, along a simple 40-50-meter ice-snow ridge with sections of rocks, ascend to the Central Gendarme (Doppakh-3). From Central Gendarme, descend along the ridge or ledges on its right side to the inclined northward Gendarme Tower. From under the Tower, make a 25 m rappel to the left. Bypassing the Gendarme, ascend to the saddle of the ridge. Further, along a steep, complex ridge, ascend to the Gendarme Kupol. From Kupol, descend along the ice-snow ridge to a snow plateau. Set up a bivouac on the plateau. From Eastern Doppakh, 6-8 hours. Along the plateau, bypass the large Pre-summit Gendarme from the right and, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80 m along a steep ice-snow slope to the rocky base of Central Doppakh. Along difficult rocks of a 50-60-meter wall, ascend to the sharp ridge of the summit and along it, exit to Central Doppakh. From the plateau, 2-3 hours.

Doppakh South

Rock, cat. 3

3 ridge — ski descent The route was first ascended in 1937. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, follow the Doppakh glacier and then to the ridge separating a small unnamed glacier and a wide scree-filled couloir on the southwest slopes of Doppakh peak. The southern path coincides with the above-described Route IX. Here, on a wide scree ridge before the western wall of the peak, there's a campsite (photo 29). From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, it takes 3–4 hours. From the campsite, ascend along the ridge to the wall. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The wall is about 200 m high, composed of difficult, sometimes wet rocks, overcome with careful belaying using ledges and 10–15 pitons. Upon exiting the wall onto the southern ridge, a 20-meter wall is overcome using the Zalpug method. From here, follow a chimney about 10 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. Variations:

• The ascent up the wall can be done slightly to the left (north) of the described route — a couloir variant.
• This variant is more difficult. The descent from the peak to the campsite and further to the "Nakhashbita" clearing follows Route 1B and takes about 4 hours.

Donpakh 1000 Nnd

combined, 2B cat. dif. 10 drainevo From the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the northwest, traversing the southern scree and grassy slopes of the Nakhashbita and Donpakh massifs, exit to the Donpakh glacier. Time — 1–1.5 hours. When moving along the moraines, beware of possible rockfalls from the slopes of the Donpakh massif. From the Donpakh glacier, to the right along the ascent to the east along a small glacier, flowing down from the slopes of the South and Main Donpakh (photo 29). The glacier with a steepness of 20–30° is uncomplicated, it leads through a small ridge into a wide scree couloir with separate sections of rocks and snow. The couloir begins at a small saddle between the Donpakh South peak to the north and two "gendarmes" to the south, sometimes referred to as

Fig. 8 30. Tsentralnyi Doppakh via West Ridge (I. Suzhaev's combined route, category 4B, Fig. 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on a snowy site under the East Ridge of West Doppakh is described in route 29. From the site, cross the col (cornice) along the snowy ridge, then approach the base of the first rocky ascent of the West Ridge of Tsentralnyi Doppakh along the steep snowy ridge. Further:

• Ascend the 6–8-meter icy slab of the ascent (piton belay);
• Bypass the overhanging rocks on the right;
• Ascend an 8-meter slab-like, above-average-difficulty rock corner with few footholds (piton belay) to the West Ridge. Along the heavily cut, destroyed, and snow-covered, average-difficulty 120–150-meter West Ridge, approach the first "gendarme". Ascend the 18–20-meter wall of average difficulty to reach the gendarme. Descend left from the gendarme. Then, traverse the steep rocks on the left side (belays) to bypass two needle-like gendarmes and rejoin the West Ridge. Continuing along the West Ridge:
• Bypass a smooth slab — a gendarme — via a 4–5-meter traverse on the left;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — Technical (first ascent).
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus. Sugansky Ridge.
3. Doppakh Z. NE face. NE ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6A.
5. Height difference of the wall section — 750 m. Total to the summit — 1098 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 210 m. Average wall slope — 65°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 124/29, bolted 3, chocks 95/16
7. Movement hours — 67 (6 days).

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 27. Doppakh West via Northwest Ridge (I. Leonov's combined route, category 4B difficulty, Fig. 7, 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) to the lower shoulder of the Northwest ridge, the summit of Doppakh West with the initial bivouac at a small kar in the left side of Sugansky Pass under the Southeast rib of Suganbashi is described in route 26. From the shoulder (bivouac possible) approach the First rock uplift of the Northwest ridge and ascend a 15 m inclined plate, then via difficult rocks of a 12 m steep inner corner to this uplift. Along 35–40 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, approach a vertical wall of a zhendarmer. From under the zhendarmer:

• 15 m descent from the ridge to the left onto a vaguely defined shelf;
• traverse 30 m along the shelf to bypass the zhendarmer.

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 26. Western Doppakh via Southwestern slopes and Northwestern ridge (I. Suzhaev's combined route, category 4A, fig. 7, 8). The path from the Nakhashbita meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the Doppakh glacier is described in route 22. On the right side of the glacier, approach a small steep lateral glacier descending onto the Doppakh glacier from the right, from under the Sugansky Pass located between:

• the Doppakh massif on the right
• Suganbashi on the left. Here, turn right and, bypassing two small icefalls, ascend on the right side of the steep lateral, heavily crevassed glacier (stonefall possible from the Doppakh walls). From the upper part of the lateral glacier - via a steep, narrow, and moderately difficult couloir (120-150 m) on the left of a wide, inclined, snow-covered shelf of the Doppakh massif, where stonefall is frequent. Ascent ("live" rocks - piton belay) to the Sugansky Pass. From the "Nakhashbita" meadow - 5-7 hours.

Fig. 7 24. Doppakh Western peak via the Southern ridge (a combined route by L. Artsyshevskaya, category 4A, Fig. 7). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (a group of 4–6 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Doppakh is described in route 22. From the summit, descend along the simple snow-covered Northern ridge in the direction of Zapadny Doppakh to two rocky gendarmes. Bypass the gendarmes (belay on a rope):

• to the right — along a steep snow-ice slope,
• to the left — along the rocky ledges of the wall (“loose” rocks)

Is Doppakh the main (western?) one via the north-eastern ridge?

The ridge is snowy-icy, category 4 difficulty. The route has been climbed multiple times (1937, 1939), but a detailed description is not available. From the south-western branch of the "Nakhashbita" glacier, ascend a steep (35-40°) icy slope, reaching 70° at times, to the north-eastern icy ridge and along it to the summit (photo 27). From the overnight stay on the glacier to the summit is 7-8 hours of intense work. Descend via the ascent route. For the route, 8-10 ice screws, ropes for loops, and other equipment are necessary.