Dykhtau

Report on traversing the Krumkol — Dykhtau Main Ridge via a Category 6B route, accomplished by a team of climbers in July 2020.

Russian Championship in Alpinism 2020. Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents. Report on the Traverse of Krumkol (4688 m) – Dykhtau Gl. (5205 m), via Route 6B cat. dif. by the Combined Team of Voronezh Region and Moscow Region for the Period from July 15 to July 22, 2020 I. Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Dmitrienko E. V., MS | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Susloparov P. A., CMS, Maximov D. S., CMS, Vasiliev I. V., CMS | | 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Bolkovoy E. V. | | 1.4 | Organization | Alpinism Federation of Moscow Region |

Report on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with the ascent along the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team in 1971.

To the Judging Committee Central Council of Physical Education And Sports Report on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with ascent via the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team. Team composition: Captain — Candidate Master of Sports Mal'tsev V.F. and coach Members: Candidate Master of Sports Bakulin A.A.

Report on traversing Dykhtau — Koshtan 6A category of complexity by a team from St. Petersburg.

REPORT on the Dykhtau – Koshtan traverse of 6A category of complexity by the team from St. Petersburg from 30.08.2020 to 5.09.2020 2020 I. Climbing Report | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Kashevnick Anton Alexandrovich, CMS |

Traverse of Dykhtau Main and East peaks via a challenging 5A category route with a detailed description of the path and necessary equipment.

Traverse of Dykhtau Main and East peaks via a challenging 5A category route with a detailed description of the path and necessary equipment.

Description of a 5B category route to the summit of Dykh-Tau via the Georgian path through the north-eastern counterfort.

Dykh-Tau (Main), NE BUTTRESS — 5B "Georgian Route". Initial bivouac — on the meadow under the base of the SE ridge of Brno peak. From the meadow, transition to Cheget-Mijirgi glacier — western branch of Mijirginsky glacier, bounded by slopes of Dykh-Tau and Misses-Tau. Along the right side of the glacier: first, up along the slopes of the eastern ridge of Misses-Tau, then crossing the glacier to the left (crevasses, avalanches) with exit under the base of the NE buttress. 200 m below the upper rock island to the right and transition to rocks on the left edge of the buttress base. From the initial bivouac 5 hours. Further movement along the buttress with general direction left and up with exit to its right edge, subsequently turning into a clearly defined ridge. Along the way, between both edges, a series of more or less clearly defined ridges is overcome. A rock mushroom on the ridge of the NE buttress can serve as a landmark. Exit to the ridge under the yellow (40 m) wall 15–20 m above the mushroom. The wall is ascended in the center; the overhanging section in the upper part is bypassed to the right. 50–70 m of straightforward climbing after the wall lead to a ledge. Bivouac is possible. From the initial bivouac 12–14 hours. From the ledge:

**Ascending to the summit via the southern slope: route description, key challenges, and required skills for successful navigation.**

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Report on the ascent of a team of climbers to the summit in Bezengi gorge via a 5B category difficulty route.

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Climbing category: ice and snow Caucasus, Bezengi valley Summit Dykh-Tau via NE wall Difficulty category: 5B Elevation gain: 2154 m. route length 3460 m. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1460 m. average steepness of main sections

Ascent to Main Dykhtau via the right South buttress, category III, with a detailed route description and recommendations for climbers.

Main Dykhtau via the right-hand Southern counterfort — Category 5A (V. Egorov, O. Ilyinsky, A. Kolchin, I. Kudinov, V. Ovsyannikov and V. Toropov — July 7, 1960; Figs. 25, 26, 27). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the scree ridge under the Southern wall of the Main Dykhtau peak is described in route 73. From the scree ridge: up and left across a snowy plateau up a rocky snowy gully to a broad scree shelf running along the entire Southern wall of the Dykhtau massif. Along the shelf to the right, crossing: two 40–50 m ice-snow gullies (stonefall hazard!) and down a 3–4 m wall (“live” rocks!) into a narrow snowy gully (stonefall hazard!). Up and right through the gully to reach the heavily broken rocks of the right-hand Southern counterfort of Main Dykhtau peak. 150–170 m up the broken easy rocks of the right-hand counterfort to a shoulder below a 70–80 m rock belt.

Ascent report to the summit of Dykhtau via the Aleksashin Route, category 5A, describing the route and the team's actions.

Central Federal District Climbing Championship Ascent Report TO THE SUMMIT of Dykhtau, Main peak via left South buttress (Alexashin's Route) 5A cat. diff. Voronezh 2023 I. Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :-: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Torshin Mikhail Viktorovich, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Ahn Konstantin Radievich, CMS |

Ascent to Main Dykhtau via Central South Counterfort, category 5A difficulty, detailed route description and recommendations for climbers.

Main Dykhtau via Central South Counterfort - 5A cat. diff. (L. Aleksashin, V. Koptev and Yu. Minin - August 1, 1959). The route from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the scree ridge under the South wall of the Main Dykhtau peak is described in route 73. From the scree ridge: 170 m up to the snowy plateau - leftwards further ascent via rocky-snowy couloir to a wide scree shelf running along the entire South wall of the Dykhtau massif Along the shelf: