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75. Main Dykhtau via Central South Counterfort - 5A cat. diff. (L. Aleksashin, V. Koptev and Yu. Minin - August 1, 1959).

The route from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the scree ridge under the South wall of the Main Dykhtau peak is described in route 73.

From the scree ridge:

• 170 m up to the snowy plateau - leftwards
• further ascent via rocky-snowy couloir to a wide scree shelf running along the entire South wall of the Dykhtau massif

Along the shelf:

• rightwards, behind the right counterfort of the Southwest ridge
• then leftwards and up-rightwards via a wide ice-snow couloir (rockfall danger!)
• after 80-100 m, exit to the rocks on the left side of the Central South counterfort of the Main Dykhtau peak, above a small snowy slope

Further:

• via smooth 50-meter difficult and 70-meter destroyed rocks of medium difficulty (piton protection!) ascent to the Central South counterfort
• 90 m up via steep rocks of medium difficulty ("live" stones!) of the counterfort
• then 25-30 m ascent via slabs to a shelf

From the shelf:

• 20-25 m up via rocky-icy couloir
• then via 25-30-meter slabs ascent to a platform under the first rocky ascent of the counterfort

From the platform (without backpacks! piton protection!):

• 15 m up the wall
• 12-15 m via slabs
• then via 25-meter inner corner
• from which a 10-12-meter traverse leftwards along the wall to the slabs
• and 25 m up via them to an oblique shelf - ascent

From the shelf:

• leftwards-upwards via a crack between the wall and a boulder
• further 6 m leftwards along the wall
• and 30 m up via icy rocks to a hollow

From the hollow:

• 15 m up the wall
• then 60-70 m via slabs to a snowy counterfort

Further:

• along the snowy ridge
• then 40 m via difficult rocks
• and 80 m via icy-snowy slope - ascent to under the wall of a rocky tower

The tower is overcome via rocks of medium difficulty in the central part of the 30-meter wall.

From the tower:

• 20-meter sport descent to a snow-rock ridge
• further along the ridge and after 80-100 m, bypassing the third gendarme via a 20-meter traverse on the right, exit to a bridging ridge

On the bridging ridge - a bivouac. From the initial bivouac - 13-15 hours.

Further ascent to the Main Dykhtau peak via the Southwest ridge is described in route 73.

Descent via the ascent route, North ridge or Central South couloir is described in routes 71 and 83.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants - 4-5 people.
2. Initial bivouac - scree ridge under the South wall of Main Dykhtau.
3. Departure time - 4-5 am.
4. Equipment: main rope - 2×40 m; expendable cordelette - 10 m; cordelette for descent - 40 m; rock pitons - 12-15; ice screws - 5-6; rock hammer - 2; carabiners - 12-14; tent - 1.
5. Bivouac locations - in a hollow or on a snowy ridge after a crack between a wall and a boulder, on a 100-120-meter ascent before a 60-meter traverse to the right, under the fifth gendarme "Tooth", on a ridge under the peak tower and on descent routes.