Document #64751586 - Route Description

Traverse of the Main and Eastern peaks of Dykhtau with ascent to the Main Dykhtau via the North ridge — 5A cat. diff. (G. Prokudaev, E. Abalakov, V. Miklashevsky, and G. Skornyakov — August 14–18). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the Dykhtau peak via its North ridge is described in #71. From the Main Dykhtau, there's an 8–10-meter descent via simple rocks towards the Eastern Dykhtau, followed by a 40-meter rappel down a wall with a crack in its upper part, then down and left across a snowy slope, and further down via a crack to a col. From the col, traverse right across simple rocks, then along a narrow ledge (piton belay!) on the South wall of the rocky tower of the Eastern Dykhtau peak, leading to a platform on its South buttress. It takes about an hour from the col. From the "VCSPS — 1935" bivouac — 9–10 hours. From the platform (without a backpack!), ascend to the peak via the left side of the 40-meter wall (from the platform!), 2 meters right of the inner corner (piton belay!). From the wall, 45–50 meters up a snowy slope, then left and up 15–20-meter slabs, followed by a spiral ascent up rocks of moderate difficulty, left, up, and right, to reach the Eastern Dykhtau peak. From the snow patch, it's possible to ascend via 40-meter slabs (piton belay!) up and right to the Eastern ridge of the peak and then up simple rocks on its right side to the peak. From the platform to the peak and descent via the ascent route takes 3–4 hours. The platform is suitable for a bivouac. From the "VCSPS — 1935" bivouac — 12–14 hours. The descent from the platform goes via the Central South couloir (rockfall, avalanches!). After two 40-meter sport descents via simple, heavily snowed rocks, down and right, there's a 40-meter traverse right and down through the Central South couloir under the rocky walls on its right side, and then twenty 40-meter sport descents (from piton to piton) with a traverse of three ice-snow couloirs, 38–40 meters wide, merging into the Central couloir from the right. From the couloir, exit onto a wide ledge on the right South buttress of the Main Dykhtau peak. From the ledge, two 40-meter rappels down vertical rocky gullies with ice and large icicles. Further, 150–170 meters down simple, heavily broken rocks on the right South buttress of the Main peak (upper part of the buttress is rockfall-prone!). Then, right through a narrow snowy (rockfall!) couloir and up a 3–4-meter simple rocky wall ("live" rocks!) to a wide talus ledge running under the entire South wall of the Dykhtau massif. The further descent to the "Austrian bivouacs" and return to the "Bezengi" alpine camp is described in #73. Recommendations for climbers
Number of participants — 4–8 people.
Initial bivouac — "Russian bivouacs".
Departure time — 4–5 am.
Equipment: main rope — 2×40 m; auxiliary cord — 20 m; rappel cord — 40 m; rock pitons — 20–25; ice pitons — 6–7; hammer — 2; carabiners — 10–12; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
Bivouac locations — on the North ridge of the Main Dykhtau peak (see #71), on the col between the Main and Eastern peaks of Dykhtau, on a wide right rocky ledge at the end of the Central South couloir, on a wide talus ledge under the South wall of the Dykhtau massif.

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