Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m), via the Southwest wall, first ascent, approximately 5A category of difficulty, by the team Сборная ФАСПб from July 9 to July 9, 2022. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team members:

• Bolyachkin D.L. — 1st sports category
• Matinyan A.A. — Master of Sports
• Trikozov V.M. — Master of Sports

1. Ascent Passport

Report on the first ascent of Ural Vostochny Peak (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the combined team of CSKA named after Demchenko and KAiS MPEI, from August 19 to August 20, 2020. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A.

Ural Vostochny (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall

Climbing details

3. Ural 3 — v, traverse, 4B.

From the Ukju-kosh hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP Golubjatnja bivouac, then along the M. Ukju glacier to the slope leading to Ural pass — 1.5–2 hours. Up the middle of the snow-ice slope (attention: covered crevasses, rockfall hazard at the edges, especially to the left of the first "gendarme" of the 3rd ridge of Ural peak) into the hollow under the pass, from it — up the steep ice-snow slope (30–40 m) to the pass; from the glacier — 1–1.5 hours. From the pass, ascend left to a gendarme, then along the ridge to the col under the wall of the 3rd summit; a bivouac site is possible here. From the pass — 1 hour. From the col, 4 m left and up to a square boulder, up the inner corner (or left of it) to a ledge, along it 4–5 m, right of a rock awning 5 m up to a trough-like ledge, left and up under a red rock. Right of it, up the corner and on the right side of the wall to a control cairn (35 m from the col). From the cairn, up the slabs and along ledges traversing left under the wall, along the ridge to a red "gendarme" and bypassing it on the left. Behind the "gendarme", straight up 5 m via a chimney and 15 m up the inner corner, then 7–8 m up smooth rocks to a slab with a 40° slope. Along the lower edge of the slab, traverse 15–17 m along a crevasse to the right, up the slab along a vertical wall, 3 m up an overhanging wall (artificial aid) and another 20 m up monolithic rocks to the summit ridge. Along the ridge for 60 m to the 3rd summit. From the col — 4–6 hours. Descent to the E — 40 m rappel, then along the snowy ridge under the E summit. Ascent to the E summit along the ridge; 40 m before the summit, traverse right along a ledge and, bypassing the summit from the S, reach the shoulder of its E ridge.

The first ascent of the Western and Eastern peaks and the traverse of the Uralochka massif was made from July 14 to 18, 1961, by a group consisting of:

1. Ryazanov V.V. - group leader, Master of Sports.
2. Ryabukhin A.G. - 1st sports category.
3. Samokhvalov V.V. - 1st sports category.
4. Benkin V. - 1st sports category.
5. Chernov V.I. - 1st sports category. The Uralochka peak is located in the ridge separating the Ullu-Auz and M. Ukyu cirques, between the Archimedes (4100 m) and Dumala-Tau (4557 m) peaks. The elevation above the M. Ukyu glacier is 700 m, and above the Ullu-Auz glacier is 800 m. The Uralochka peak is a double-headed peak: the Western peak (4270 m) is connected by a 200-meter saddle to the Eastern peak (4300 m). To the north (into the M. Ukyu cirque) from the Western peak, there are tile-like slabs covered with ice and snow; to the south (into the Ullu-Auz cirque), there are walls. The rocks forming the massif are granites with a high quartz content. The cracks are shallow and worn out. The surface of the rocks is rough and pockmarked, resembling the surface of syenites.

Ural M via E ridge, 3B

From the "Ukyu-kosh" hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the "Golubyatnya" FSP shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m before) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (fig. 1). From the glacier, go right onto the "pillow" under the ridge leading from Ural p. to Dumala, ascend the snow-ice slope between rockfall (left) and avalanche debris (right) through a covered crevasse in the slope inflection zone and further along the bergschrund to the E edge of the "pillow". Cross the bergschrund, and then ascend 150 m up the ice-snow slope with a steepness of 50 to 30° along the rocky counterfort of the last gendarme onto the ridge, using ice screws for belay. Follow the snowy ridge with rock outcrops to the saddle under the summit tower. From the boundary of the snowy ridge with rocks, go left 5–6 m along the slabs and up 15 m along the sheer inner corner (belay via rock screws) to a ledge with a выступ. From here, ascend 40 m up the rocky couloir (attention: fragile rocks, possible snow) to the gap in the summit ridge and left — to the summit cairn. From the glacier 4–5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route, from the ledge to the saddle — "Dülfer" on a doubled 40-meter rope. To the meadow 2.5–3 hours. Hazardous areas:

• on the "pillow" — covered crevasses;
• on the summit tower — fragile rocks;
• on the snow-ice slope of the E ridge (when descending) — wet snow, avalanche danger. Special equipment:

13. The Eastern summit of peak Ural via the Northern wall — 4A cat. dif. (A. Ryabukhin, N. Levchenko, V. Samokhvalov and O. Trubnikova — July 15, 1963; Fig. 3A). The path from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to the Zelyonaya glade below Maly Ukju glacier see in description 1. From the glade, ascent to the moraine to the right of a lowering in its ridge, traverse it to avoid a glacial lake, then exit to Maly Ukju glacier and ascend it. In an hour, to the right of the Southern counterfort of Ukju peak, exit the glacier to the left onto the moraine below the southern slopes of the peak. There is a bivouac on the moraine. From the “Bezengi” alpine camp — 5–6 hours. From the moraine (in crampons! roped up!) cross the glacier and ascend to the right of the central couloir of peak Ural

200 198

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of MGHR. 2.3.
3. Peak: Ural (Western) (4300 m).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 45, pr. 507, p.4, 26/5–81.
5. Route character: combined. Height difference: 520 m. Average steepness: 63°. Length of sections: 4th cat. diff. — 155 m; 5th cat. diff. — 265 m; (of which 5B and 6 cat. diff. — 80 m)

North-West Federal District Championship 2022 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to the summit Ural (V), 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern buttress, V. Makarov, 1986, category 5B The route was completed by the team from Murmansk-Voronezh

Ascent Details

1. Western Caucasus, 2.5. From Kithlod pass to Gezhevtsek pass (from the north of the Main Caucasian Range).
2. Ural (V) peak, 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern buttress.
3. Route type — rock climbing.
4. Route length ≈ 860 m. Section lengths: ≈ category V — 550 m, ≈ category VI — 260 m. Average steepness of the entire route ≈ 65°. Average steepness of the wall section ≈ 80°.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Object of ascent: v. Ural V. via the SE wall.
4. Proposed route - 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 550 m, length - 684 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity - 545 m. Average steepness of main sections is 70° (3600-4080), including 6 category of complexity at 87° (3600-3685); 85° (3715-3770).
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolt 7, chocks 72, 3.
7. Team's man-hours - 20 and days - 2.

Russian Championship 2024 (altitude-technical class)

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V), 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort (V. Makarova, 1986) 5B Combined team of St. Petersburg:

• Nikita V. Donkov — 1st sports category
• Artur A. Matinyan — Master of Sports
• Konstantin A. Orlov — Candidate Master of Sports

Table of Contents

I. Ascent Passport — 3