13. The Eastern summit of peak Ural via the Northern wall — 4A cat. dif. (A. Ryabukhin, N. Levchenko, V. Samokhvalov and O. Trubnikova — July 15, 1963; Fig. 3A). The path from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to the Zelyonaya glade below Maly Ukju glacier see in description 1. From the glade, ascent to the moraine to the right of a lowering in its ridge, traverse it to avoid a glacial lake, then exit to Maly Ukju glacier and ascend it. In an hour, to the right of the Southern counterfort of Ukju peak, exit the glacier to the left onto the moraine below the southern slopes of the peak. There is a bivouac on the moraine. From the “Bezengi” alpine camp — 5–6 hours. From the moraine (in crampons! roped up!) cross the glacier and ascend to the right of the central couloir of peak Ural for 100–120 m along a gently sloping snowy slope to a bergschrund. Then, along a steep slope for 80–90 m to a large rocky outcrop (protection!). Along a 50-meter couloir turning into a 15–20-meter chimney, up to the left to the summit of the outcrop (avalanche!). From the outcrop, along a steep snowy slope for 30 m up to the right. Traverse the second large rocky outcrop along ledges and a couloir on the left (avalanche!). At the level of the lower part of the “Bull” 70–80 m up to the right along heavily snowed rocks, below the wall of the third rocky outcrop. From below the wall, along moderately difficult rocks for 40 m up to the right to the summit of the third outcrop. From the outcrop (in crampons!) 100–120 m up along a steep icy Central, very narrow couloir (rockfall! avalanche!). From the couloir, along difficult rocks for 20 m up to the left to the summit of the “Bull”. From the “Bull” (“live” rocks!) 100–120 m to the left and up along difficult rocks below a sharp gendarme (avalanche!). Traverse the gendarme on the left and along a 120–140-meter ice-snow ridge-slope (crampons! avalanche!) exit to a saddle between the Western and Eastern summits of peak Ural. There is a bivouac on the saddle. From the moraine — 12–14 hours. From the saddle, along a snowy ridge and easy rocks, ascend to the Eastern summit of peak Ural. Descent to the northwest to Maly Ukju glacier see in description 12.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of Maly Ukju glacier opposite the Northern wall of peak Ural.
3. Departure time — not later than 3 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2 × 40 m; accessory cordelette — 6–8 m; rock pitons — 6–8; ice screws — 5–6; rock hammers — 2; carabiners — 8–10, crampons — 4 pairs, tent — 1.
5. Bivouac sites — on the saddle between the summits of peak Ural, in the hollow of the Eastern saddle and on the moraines of Maly Ukju glacier.
6. With little snow, the route is prone to rockfall!