272. Ullutau Western peak via Western ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 18, 30).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Garvash pass is described in route 278. From the saddle platforms, follow the straightforward, heavily damaged and snow-covered (cornices) rocky Western ridge, passing three ascents, to approach the Teeth, which are bypassed by traversing from the left, and then approach the wall (5-8 m high).

The wall is overcome directly via medium-difficulty rocks (pitons insurance).

Then, along a narrow 40-60-meter ridge, approach the couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, insurance).

Up the steep rocks on the left side of the narrowing snow-covered 80-90-meter couloir - ascent ("live" rocks, pitons insurance) to the Western shoulder.

From the Western shoulder, ascend to the summit of Ullutau Western peak via the rocks of the Western ridge. From the Garvash pass, it takes 3-4 hours.

Sources

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