271. Ullutau Western via North-Western Wall of the Eastern Ridge
(combined route by D. Gudkov, cat. 4B, fig. 18, 30, 31)
The path from Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to "Cheget bivouac" is described in route 269. From "Cheget bivouac":
- ascend upwards to the left along the rugged western part of Ullutau glacier, bypassing numerous crevices, to the rocky outcrop located on the path to Garvash pass, under the right side of the Lower rocky belt at the base of the North-Western wall of Ullutau massif;
- set up initial bivouac on the outcrop's flat areas;
- the journey from "Cheget bivouac" takes 30-50 minutes.
From the initial bivouac on the outcrop, traverse 200-250 m to the left to cross the glacier plateau (possible avalanches, hidden crevices), then ascend a steep ice-snow slope (hidden crevices) towards the right side of the scree slope with a small wall at the lower part of the western couloir on the right side of the North-Western wall of Ullutau massif. A large rocky pinnacle, "Bashnya" (Tower), stands above the left upper part of the couloir.
From the glacier, ascend 2025 m upwards to the left along simple and moderately difficult, heavily fragmented blocks and shelves on the wall of the right side of the western couloir, towards the gully in the center of the western couloir, bypassing its lower wall - a drop.
Ascend a simple, narrow, steep, wet rocky 10-12-meter gully (possible rockfall) to exit into the main wide western scree couloir.
Ascend 60-80 m along the scree couloir towards a chimney - a cleft in its upper right corner; on the left, there is a difficult vertical inner corner.
Then, ascend a difficult vertical chimney - cleft, followed by:
- 20 meters of steep, smooth, moderately difficult slabs,
- 30 m of steep, moderately difficult rocks ("live" stones),
- simple, gently sloping rocks,
- further ascent along scree to exit from the rocky drop on the right side onto the rocky flat areas of the North-Western wall.
The journey from the initial bivouac on the rocky outcrop on the western side of Ullutau glacier takes 3-4 hours.
From the flat areas, ascend 500-600 m upwards along the gradually steepening North-Western ice-snow slope (possible avalanches) towards the rocky ascent of the main ridge of Ullutau massif. Then, ascend 150-200 m upwards to the left along steep ice-snow slopes, alternating with rocky ridges ("live" stones) (rockfall) onto the main ridge of Ullutau massif. The journey from the bivouac on the wall's flat area takes 6-10 hours.
On the ridge, turn right and follow the simple, snow-covered Eastern Ridge with numerous rocky pinnacles