Ullutau Western — Eastern via the northwestern wall (traverse), combined, 5A

Route description:

Following the standard path via "Chegetskie nochyovki" we move towards Garvash Pass, pass the rocky outcrop "Khitsan", cross the glacier covered with avalanche debris and come out under the rock wall at the base of the "board".

The exit to the rock wall is done in the lower part via a simple couloir, 60 m long. There is a protected area at the top of the couloir, suitable for the group to gather.

The next part (one rope length) goes straight up the complex rocks, requiring the use of piton belay.

Then we overcome simple rocks and come out to the lower part of the "board". There is a "stop for the night" here.

The ascent from the "stop for the night" along the "board" to the ridge is 700–800 m and is done diagonally up to the left along the snow-ice slope in the direction of the saddle on the ridge. The steepness of the "board" is:

• in the lower part — 30°,
• in the upper part — up to 55°.

The movement is carried out with piton belay. We come out onto the ridge and move along it to the "diamond", which is overcome head-on. The further path to the main summit lies along the destroyed ridge. There are areas for overnight stay along the way.

The path from the main summit to the eastern summit also goes along the ridge — 2 hours. The entire ridge is destroyed and has significant drops. From the eastern summit, descend along the ridge into the hollow before the "cucumbers". This path takes 6 hours. There is a place for an overnight stay. The ascent to the "cucumbers" is done via the right (in the direction of travel) part of the ridge. Further, the path from the "cucumbers" to Mestia Pass goes along the ridge and descends a little below the pass itself onto the glacier. The ascent to the pass and descent to the camp is done via the standard tourist route.

Ullu

5A (from the ascent), Usm 0503

• Type
• Invisible
• Overnight stay

(1) Center (2) Eastern (3) Western (4) Garvash Pass (5) Ridge (6) Internal (7) Northwestern (8) Chegetskie nochyovki (9) Exit