276. Ullutau Western — Eastern

(combined route by L. Nadezhdin, 4A cat. dif., fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ullutau Western is described in route 272. From the summit of Ullutau Western:

• down the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge,
• then down 15 m steep rocks and 10 m slabs to a snowy saddle.

Beyond the saddle:

• along a narrow ledge on the right side of the ridge (overhanging rocks, loose stones),
• up a 10 m wall of medium difficulty with a crack to reach the ridge of the massif.

Along the easy ridge, reach the 2nd Western pinnacle-summit.

From the pinnacle-summit, descend down slabs and steep rocks to an icy-snowy saddle. Then, along simple rocks of the ridge, passing a 10-meter sharp crest, approach the Main Pinnacle, which is bypassed via difficult slabs on the left. Further along the heavily serrated ridge of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the Red Pinnacle.

Ascent to the Red Pinnacle:

• Up a wall of medium difficulty rocks to the Red Pinnacle.

Descent from the Red Pinnacle:

• Descend from it towards the Tooth pinnacle.
• The Tooth is bypassed by descending via heavily broken rocks on the right.
• Behind it, ascend along a couloir (loose stones) to the ridge of the massif.

From here, along a long, heavily serrated, broken, and in places narrow ridge of the massif, overcoming numerous pinnacles head-on (some are bypassed on the right), reach a platform, just before the summit of Ullutau Main. On the platform — a bivouac. From Ullutau Western: 8–10 hours.

From the platform, along a simple ridge, overcoming low pinnacles and slabs head-on, ascend via rocks of medium difficulty to the summit of Ullutau Main. From Western: 10–12 hours. From the bivouac: 1.5–2 hours.

From the Main summit, along broken simple and medium difficulty rocks of the ridge, overcoming all pinnacles head-on, ascend to the summit of Ullutau Eastern. From the Main summit: 1–1.5 hours.

From the summit of Ullutau Main:

• 60 m down along the Eastern ridge,
• then turn right and descend along the second couloir from the summit down to snowfields,
• from the snowfields, traverse left-down through couloirs, descending via simple broken counterforts to the plateau (or see routes 260, 261).