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2. Group Composition and Support

The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp:

1. Saratov Yu.S. — group leader,
2. Beda A.G.,
3. Golubkov B.S.,
4. Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents:

• 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi
• 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.

Moscow City Council

VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:

• Moiseev Yu. A.
• Mosunov A. A.
• Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.

Physical Culture and Sports Committee under the USSR Council of Ministers

XXXVI USSR Alpine Championship 1985

Snow and Ice Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of Shota Rustaveli peak, 4960 m, via the north face, category 5B difficulty, made by the team RSFSR – II.

Team's Tactical Actions

A day before departure, an observation of the route and a study of the lower part of the route were conducted. The tactic was built to safely and quickly pass the extended snow and ice route.

Ascent Passport

I. Class of ice and snow ascents 2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi 3. Peak Shota Rustaveli - 4960 m via North face (route by A. V. Laletin) 4. 5B category, fourth ascent 5. Total height difference of the route is 1360 m. Height difference of the wall section is 1200 m. Average steepness of the wall section is 48°. Route length is 2565 m. Length of the wall section is 1755 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 1445 m. 6. Pitons hammered: Ice pitons for belay - 250, ITO - 9. Rock pitons for belay - 13.

Ascent Logbook

1. Type of ascent: ice and snow climb.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Peak Shota Rustaveli, 4960 m, via the north face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total height difference of the route 1340 m, height difference of the wall section 1180 m, average steepness of the wall section 48°, route length 2400 m, wall section length 1660 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1355 m.
6. Pitons used: Ice pitons for belay 257, ITO 6, rock pitons for belay 12.
7. Total climbing hours: 24.

Bakin Kudinov

5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

Katyn 58 to the S. wall I. Kudinov 12.08–14.08 11.08 9.08 ▲10.08

Katyn-Tau, NE ridge – 4B cat. diff.

The initial bivouac is on the Bezengi glacier under the base of the NE counterfort. From the bivouac, cross the bergschrund via an avalanche deposit to the left of the counterfort and move up the snowy slope 400 m to the right of the avalanche chute, then traverse to the right under the rocks of the counterfort and ascend 80 m up a rocky couloir onto the counterfort. Further:

• Keep to the left slopes
• Move up through simple rocks alternating with snowy sections
• Proceed along the snowy slope to the "cushion" 6–7 hours from the bivouac. An overnight stay can be organized on the "cushion". The initial bivouac is on the ridge at the beginning of the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier. From the bivouac:

"Main Dzhangitau via the North-East buttress — category 5A" (Schwarzgruber, A. Larin, Peringer, Taper — 23 July 1935; N. Chekmarev and G. Skornyakov — 23 August 1936; Fig. 39). From Bezengi alpine camp, follow the trail along the left-bank moraine of the Bezengi gorge up to the Missekosha hut. From the hut, on the south side of the meadow, follow the trail down, across the meadow with graves of climbers who perished in the Bezengi area, and descend to the Bezengi Glacier. Traverse the glacier, keeping to its left side, up and past minor icefalls and crevasses near the left bank, and then up the center-right of the glacier to its fork into left (East) and right (North-West) branches. Under the icefall of the East branch, turn left under the talus and grassy ascent of the left-bank moraine. Follow the trail right of the stream that flows from the trough between the moraine and the slopes of Pik Semenovsky down to the main Bezengi Glacier, and ascend to the moraine. Camp on the moraine. From Bezengi alpine camp — 3–4 hours. From the camp (with crampons!) traverse the glacier to the right side of the base of the North-East buttress of Main Dzhangitau. From the glacier, ascend the avalanche debris (avalanches!) between two rocky outcrops, through a bergschrund and along a gully, and then up a snowy slope to beneath the main rocky ascent of the North-East buttress. Bypass it via a snowy ascent on the right (avalanches! rockfall! icefall!) and exit onto an ice ledge (pitons!). From initial camp — 3–4 hours. From here:

• left and up rocky terrain of medium difficulty and an ice-snow slope (pitons!) — ascent onto the North-East buttress;
• from there, right and 80–100 m up simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the buttress (“live” rocks! pitons!), small slabs are bypassed via snow-ice slopes on the right;
• then, up a snowy slope — ascent onto a horizontal snowy ridge;